It recently dawned on me that the 1990s, the era that defined me, is properly vintage. While it’s a discombobulating thought (I mean, I don’t feel middle-aged), there are some positives. One is that the minimalist-slash-deconstructivist designers of the time – Margiela, Lang, Demeulemeester, Sander, Prada, Klein – have become established as classics and thus there’s a new market for them. (more…)
I didn’t see the Raf Simons SS20 show irl, but I watched it on Instagram Live – is that not the same but almost better? Except instead of chatting to your seatmate after the show, you read the reactions of other Raf-heads (and then check Tim Blanks’s review to fill the missing knowledge gaps).
So accordingly, the Raf Simons SS20 show was a resetting, or returning back to basics of sorts. (more…)
Louise Trotter thwacked the ball clean out of the court (or whatever the correct tennis terminology is – frankly I haven’t a clue) in her Lacoste creative director debut at Paris Fashion Week.
Having come from Joseph, there were shades of her relaxed, gentlewomanly aesethetic, with a sporty twist. My standouts were the superb outerwear, all the leathers, plus the camel and oxblood drawstring bags. (more…)
Yes, it’s true. In news that most fashion insiders saw coming, Raf Simons and Calvin Klein are parting ways.
It all started promisingly, with Raf’s arty Americana-themed debut well received by critics back in 2016. High points for me were the American quilts, Warhol collaborations, Western-influenced denimand those off-beat balaclavas. The Kardashians campaign lost me a bit and may well have been the point where Raf realised, maybe he wasn’t cut out for this level of commerciality. (more…)