Calvin Klein

The culture of fashion: The 90s is officially vintage – here’s why that’s a good thing



Jil Sander 1990s

It recently dawned on me that the 1990s, the era that defined me, is properly vintage. While it’s a discombobulating thought (I mean, I don’t feel middle-aged), there are some positives. One is that the minimalist-slash-deconstructivist designers of the time – Margiela, Lang, Demeulemeester, Sander, Prada, Klein – have become established as classics and thus there’s a new market for them. (more…)



Raf’s reset for SS20



Raf Simons SS20 Christina Fragkou for Dazed

I didn’t see the Raf Simons SS20 show irl, but I watched it on Instagram Live – is that not the same but almost better? Except instead of chatting to your seatmate after the show, you read the reactions of other Raf-heads (and then check Tim Blanks’s review to fill the missing knowledge gaps).

So accordingly, the Raf Simons SS20 show was a resetting, or returning back to basics of sorts. (more…)



Lacoste AW19 and examining the ‘halo effect’



Lacoste AW19 Giedre Dukauskaite

The Hermes-ification of Lacoste starts here.

Louise Trotter thwacked the ball clean out of the court (or whatever the correct tennis terminology is – frankly I haven’t a clue) in her Lacoste creative director debut at Paris Fashion Week.

Having come from Joseph, there were shades of her relaxed, gentlewomanly aesethetic, with a sporty twist. My standouts were the superb outerwear, all the leathers, plus the camel and oxblood drawstring bags. (more…)



Raf Simons leaves Calvin Klein :(



Raf Simons leaves Calvin Klein

Yes, it’s true. In news that most fashion insiders saw coming, Raf Simons and Calvin Klein are parting ways.

It all started promisingly, with Raf’s arty Americana-themed debut well received by critics back in 2016. High points for me were the American quilts, Warhol collaborations, Western-influenced denim and those off-beat balaclavas. The Kardashians campaign lost me a bit and may well have been the point where Raf realised, maybe he wasn’t cut out for this level of commerciality. (more…)