Jil Sander

Trend report: my AW19 wish list



Jil Sander Aw19

While the fashion industry is becoming less seasonal by the day, instead opting for more frequent ‘drops’, in my mind, September is still officially New Season month. I still look forward to the September issue of Vogue (yes, I’m the one keeping print afloat) (Just – R.I.P Marie Claire) and I’m relieved to see proper clothes in the shops instead of endless tees and shorts. Hey, I’m a knitwear girl! Here’s my pick of the autumn trends and best buys I’m eyeing for the forseeable…


DIOR GORPCORE
While Dior menswear is getting most of my love at the moment, I’m here for the Dior plaid cagoule (complete with Stephen Jones bucket hat, below). Could designer cagoules be the new luxe hoodie?
Dior Aw19


POST PUNK KNITS
On the knitwear front, I’m into the Hades Wool post-punk collaborations (below), featuring Joy Division, DEVO and Xray Spex. Alas, so are lots of other people; these sweaters are being snapped up super-fast. Bella Freud has also produced a trove of near-perfect punk inspired mohairs. But for day-to-day, I’ve found the best basic knits from AW19 are from Chinti & Parker, COS, Arket and Extreme Cashmere. Also notable is this Sunspel lambswool knit in military green or cobalt blue.
Hades Wool Joy Division


CRYSTAL BALLS
I spotted some of Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s glass twist jewellery at Mouki Mou in Chiltern Street, which sent me down a Pinterest rabbit hole of glass and crystal baubles. There I discovered these highly strokable Cyril Studio crystal ball earrings and pendant by artist Leila Du Mond. Duly added to the fantasy shopping list…
Cyril Studio Lunar Pendant
Cyril Orbital Drops


GARCONNE FOOTWEAR
I’ve got Paraboot Michael shoes on my mind; the classic French crenelated sole lace-up shoes (below), perfect for inner city running around. I’ve seen them at Toast and Mouki Mou, but I’m yet to take the plunge. At the other end of the French footwear scale, the stack heeled boot returns, courtesy of Hedi Slimane’s Celine (below). I still have an old L’Autre Chose grained leather pair so I’ll shop my closet for those, but if you’re in the market for a lower price pair, have a look at Arket.
Paraboot Michael shoe for women
Celine AW19 boots


JIL SANDER & CO
While Bottega and Celine grab the headlines, Jil Sander (below) has quietly been reclaiming its own cohort of fans. I’ve spotted a great edit of voluminous white shirts at Dover Street Market, while The Row is about to open its first London store. And for more pristine oversized menswear-inspired garb, Studio Nicholson has come up with the goods once again.
Jil Sander Aw19


OG DENIM
On my denim wishlist? The same as last season. And the season before. OK, I’m always looking for dark blue denim and this season it has a slight Western flavour to it. Get the jeans and matching shirt-jacket from Lemaire if you’re minted (below), or Levi’s Made & Crafted if you’re not.
Lemaire denim aw19


BOOK BAGS
In the interest of high-low dressing, my bag of the season isn’t the Lutz Morris Norman Mini bag, but the humble book tote. The New York Times wrote about the cult German book bag, while I’m still toting my ancient Strand Book Store tote. But Idea Books’ ‘Techno’ number (below) is my new tote of choice – a steal at twenty-odd quid (here or here).
Techno tote bag Idea


G BEAUTY
This season’s geographical beauty trend is all about G for good old, no-nonsense German beauty. Dr Hauschka is a mainstay, followed by Weleda (actually Swiss-German) and skincare brand of the hour Augustinus Bader. Bader is a professor and scientist whose cult face moisturisers (the Cream and the Rich Cream) were developed from stem cell technology designed to heal burns victims’ skin. The brand itself only exists to fund his research. Look out for the newest launch (*press sample), The Body Cream, which uses the same formula for firmer, even-toned skin. Finally, Germany’s Olverum therapeutic oils (below) are new to me. The Olverum Dry Body Oil, made with a green and citrusy blend of more than 30 essential oils first created in 1931, has just landed at Les Senteurs.
Olverum Dry Body Oil


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WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Credits to come
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Shop the post: What to wear for summer in the city



shorts for summer in the city by Margaret Howell

See, this is the problem. When you live in a city that’s damp and moody 90% of the time (especially even in summer), you come unstuck in a heatwave. I rarely buy full-on summer stuff because it just seems too much like tempting fate. Inevitably if I buy anything remotely holidaymaker-ish we’re beset with weeks of floods. (Context: it’s 40 degrees in London today.)

So here I am in need of shorts, smart tees, a big airy dress and some sort of dress-up-dress-down shirt. Warning: don’t Google ‘women’s army shorts’ like I just did. (more…)



Menswear aw19 trend report



Prada AW19 menswear

Quite often the menswear shows give a peek into what the womenswear shows will look like. Even more so if you like your womenswear on the non froufrou side. So here’s a primer to myself on the menswear AW19 highlights so far. Valentino, Prada, and Jil Sander had the best knits, Vetements, the most interesting concept, and Dior and Raf Simons the best accessories.

Vetements was really interesting to me. A commentary on the dark web, the hoodie-balaclava hybrids were creepy but also symbolic of people wanting to withdraw into themselves. (more…)



Jil Sander SS19 – seen but not heard



Jil Sander SS19

Vogue reports that Jil Sander SS19 took its trouser suit cues from the military, the artist’s studio and sports uniforms. I think there’s still plenty of mileage in the boxy, Celine-esque silhouette that’s dominated this decade. Women really seem to like its comfort factor and it aligns with the gender fluid movement perfectly. The Vogue review ends with a caveat that designers Luke and Lucie Meier (now in their third season at Jil Sander) still have some way to go to revive the label.

I think this is a PR thing. (more…)