Jil Sander

Trend report: What to wear for SS26



The Row SS26

SS26 was the now infamous ‘reset’ season of mega designers taking up residence at new houses. The result is a broom-sweep of schloopy silhouettes in lieu of sharper cuts, bold injections of colour and a menu of fashion archetypes to choose from, rather than one or two overarching directions.

1/ PALETTE CLEANSER. One thing designers did agree on: this is a season for pure primaries in abundance. It’s a look that works really well on simple, architectural silhouettes which was especially clear at Jil Sander (below), Loewe and Celine as well as The Row (top). Just one piece can energise your everyday since primaries play so well against grey, beige and denim. The Loewe ‘Sports Walkman’ yellows (below) are pure summer holiday vibes and I love a red cardigan to offset khaki, white or grey. (more…)



Are we ready to dress up?



Dries van Noten ss26 by Morgane Maurice

Robert Armstrong made a good point a few weeks ago in the FT. “Intentional underdressing [normcore et al] has become ubiquitous and so lost its power. It’s less fun for the mogul to wear a hoodie when his toadies do too; this explains why dressing up is, slowly but surely, coming back in”.

With the long-awaited arrival of NikeSKIMS, this suggests we’ve reached the apex of casual underdressing. It only recently dawned on me why athleisure was so popular for the last five years. Firstly, it’s easy to wear – pull on and go. (more…)



Cold eroticism at Jil Sander SS26



Jil Sander ss26

In the absence of a ticket, I watched Simone Bellotti’s debut SS26 show on YouTube. As one of 13 key designer debuts this season, it’s one of the first shows that will be discussed big. Coming from a very critically successful few seasons at Bally, Bellotti has engineered a lot of good feeling from the press.

I loved this debut. It felt stripped back to the spare linear silhouettes of OG Jil Sander, with a pure colour palette that nodded to Raf-era. Within that I particularly liked the cold eroticism of Lucio Fontana-esque cutaway slashes in the skirts and cut-out back details, unexpected pops of silver, some great bags and the flat shoes. (more…)



Music is the answer: Simone Bellotti’s ‘lyrical restraint’ at Jil Sander



Simone Bellotti Jil Sander film
Fashion and music are intertwined for me. I’ve always thought that the best fashion shows also have the best music. This first look at Simone Bellotti’s new vision of Jil Sander leans heavily on music, so that’s already a potential win. And I’m loving the idea of ‘lyrical restraint’, as Vogue Business describes his approach.

Ahead of his first Jil Sander show in September, Bellotti has released Wanderlust, an ethereal teaser film of atmospheric town-to-country vignettes located in Hamburg and set to Bochum Welt’s melodic electronic soundtrack. It’s romantic, austere and elegant all at once. (more…)