Quite often the menswear shows give a peek into what the womenswear shows will look like. Even more so if you like your womenswear on the non froufrou side. So here’s a primer to myself on the menswear AW19 highlights so far. Valentino, Prada, and Jil Sander had the best knits, Vetements, the most interesting concept, and Dior and Raf Simons the best accessories.
Vetements was really interesting to me. A commentary on the dark web, the hoodie-balaclava hybrids were creepy but also symbolic of people wanting to withdraw into themselves. (more…)
Vogue reports that Jil Sander SS19 took its trouser suit cues from the military, the artist’s studio and sports uniforms. I think there’s still plenty of mileage in the boxy, Celine-esque silhouette that’s dominated this decade. Women really seem to like its comfort factor and it aligns with the gender fluid movement perfectly. The Vogue review ends with a caveat that designers Luke and Lucie Meier (now in their third season at Jil Sander) still have some way to go to revive the label.
If you’re already mourning Phoebe Philo’s departure from Celine, here’s something that might placate you. This palate-cleanser of a resort collection from Jil Sander has enough off-kilter elements to satisfy any cravings, while maintaining its own minimalist leanings. (more…)
I wouldn’t want to be Lucie and Luke Meier with all the pressure entailed in trying to resuscitate Jil Sander. Their debut collection for SS18 was big on slim tailoring, monastic white shirts, lots of texture layering (macrame fringing anyone?) and some great bags. Nothing mind-exploding but that’s not what you want for Jil Sander. (more…)