ICYMI, the biggest buzz of fashion month is all about the return of Phoebe Philo. It has barely started and her new brand doesn’t launch until September, yet we can be certain this will be the topic du jour for the next four weeks.
The new Bottega Veneta AW22 ad campaign has dropped and its clearer than ever to see the commercial potential in Matthieu Blazy’s new vision. I never quite warmed to the clickbait-leaning Daniel Lee aesthetic – Blazy’s seems altogether more sophisticated.
I can see shades of Raf (in the knitwear) and Phoebe-era Celine in the classic-cool styling. There’s enough OG Bottega in the intrecciato leather bags* and is that a nod to Ghesquiere-era Balenciaga (where Blazy first interned) in the curvilinear tailoring and shoe shapes*? The campaign imagery is shot by a coterie of up-and-coming photographers, celebrating craft, community and travel. (more…)
It’s been off the boil for a few seasons but it looks like London Fashion Week will be back in full IRL technicolour come September. So far, we’ve had news of Burberry and JW Anderson returning and Raf Simons showing in London for the first time (omg!). But just you wait (‘enry ‘iggins), I’m sure there will be more surprise announcements.
Funny isn’t it, how quickly one adapts. In one season the media and public have flipped from hating Hedi’s take on Celine to kind of loving it.
When Hedi Slimane showed his first vision of new Celine, Phoebe Philo’s fan club were bereft. They swarmed to Vestiaire Collective to buy up whatever Phoebe-era #oldceline bags and shoes they could get their hands on, freaking out that her conceptual-lite aesthetic had been obliterated by evil Hedi in place of – the horror! – generic luxury tropes of the sort he’d previously produced at Saint Laurent.
Six months later though, they’ve calmed down and come round. (more…)