The highlight of couture week has been Balenciaga couture Fall 21. A tribute to the absolute essence of Balenciaga, it was both austere and grandiose, and I think it’s fair to say, surpassed everyone’s expectations.
Having kind of tuned out recent Balenciaga ready-to-wear collections (too hype-y, too meme-y!), I was enthralled by this first Balenciaga couture collection in 53 years. The minimalist silhouettes, (what a fab trench!), the space-age headgear, the jeans and tee treatment and the baublicious jewels. What looked like a crocodile skin skirt and trousers were in fact made from tiny pieced-together squares of leather. There were shades of Margiela (one of Demna Gvasalia’s most respected designers), McQueen and – to my eye – Raf’s Dior. (more…)
One of my great discoveries of the year so far: an Egyptian brand called Udjat.
I was commissioned by Harper’s Bazaar Arabia to write about this fantastic new line, which celebrates the culture and craft of Egypt through fashion and home objects. The co-founder Louis Barthélemy is a very interesting character, something of a polymath, who has created textile designs for Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo and Dior (check out his incredible art here). But the Udjat collection grabbed my attention with its relaxed shirt shapes, intricate embroidery and wonderful photography. (more…)
I know this is a terrible thing to say, but there’s too much good stuff on right now. I just caught the last day of Diane Arbus at The Hayward (brilliant). Just missed Don McCullin at the Tate (gutted). And now London Craft Week has snuck up on me and I’m nowhere near ready for it.
London Craft Week is now in its fifth year, a festival of all things artisanal and considered, with the additional backing of some heavyweight sponsors including Dunhill and Purdey to give it that extra push. (more…)
What a treat to get a close up look at the Raymond Pettibon pieces at the Dior menswear AW19 press day.
Kim Jones excelled himself with couture quality pieces adorned with Pettibon’s artwork including the spectacular embroidered tabard that wowed everyone at the show. You can see a close up below; the phrase, “with their own light and lash I have drawn them” is from an old Pettibon artwork. (more…)