shoes

On my radar: opera pumps



Roy Halston and Andre Leon Talley in opera pumps

This photo of Roy Halston and Andre Leon Talley (above) appeared on my Pinterest and got me thinking about opera pumps.

WTF are opera pumps? Quite simply a Regency-era formal men’s slipper previously adorned with a buckle, now with a flat grosgrain bow (below). The opera pump is traditionally worn with black tie, accompanied by black sheer silk socks (and sock suspenders!). The classic variety popularised by the Edwardians is made from black patent leather, although since the 1950s highly polished calfskin has also been an option. How is an opera pump different to a ballet pump? To me, it has a slightly slimmer profile, a more solid heel, is cut higher on the vamp and finished with a grosgrain bow. (more…)



The wrong shoe



Gucci SS24 show

What’s the deal with fugly shoes? I thought they were a post-ironic anomaly, but no, the aesthetically displeasing Uggs, Crocs and Bottega-style Puddle boots are clearly sticking around.

Back in the day, a Margiela Tabi boot was seriously avant-garde and the perfect foil to your minimalist Lang/Demeulemeester/Sander little black suit. Now it’s a whole sub-franchise netting hefty sales for loyal retailers.

The #NewGucci SS24 show led by Sabato De Sarno garnered mixed reactions (more…)



Gentlewoman style: the Essēn demi-dressy summer flat



Essen Mary Jane mules

You know how I feel about mules. But I’m, willing to make a one-time exception for this very elegant, comfortable-looking and not badly priced Mary Jane mule from Melbourne-based brand, Essēn.

The toe is elegantly chiselled, with the merest suggestion of toe cleavage. The heel is a city-friendly 5mm, but the killer detail is the delicate strap that sits high on the instep, so from the front you barely know it’s a mule and it seems to secure the shoe in place, while still exposing plenty of ankle. (more…)



Shop the post: The low-down on party shoes



Julia Nobis by Zoe Ghertner for M Le Monde

Question: do people go for a fully glitzed-up party look these days? Or do they go for more comfort-led with a nod to shine and bedazzle? I’ve seen a lot of extreme glam-rock platform heels* doing the rounds on all the shopping sites, not to mention the Bottega Veneta Mostra heels*. But equally, I’ve noticed that in real life, the gorgeous young things are wearing the opposite. Like, a satin slip with 70s-style Adidas Gazelles (that is, the amped-up 2020s version at 2020s prices – thanks Gucci*).

Somewhere in-between is a middle ground where the New York minimalistas are pitched. (more…)