Tom Ford

On my radar: citrus with a twist



Alex Katz Still Life with Lemons, 1955

London’s been hot lately and all I can think about is copious slices of lemon in my iced Pellegrino and endless top-ups of chilled Limonata.

It’s also the season for cooling citrus fragrances that transport you to the breezy coasts of Southern Italy. Acqua di Parma is forever the go-to for such escapist olfaction. It has just released its new Bergamotto la Spugnatura Eau de Parfum* in a blue sculptural-capped porcelain bottle designed by architectural designer, Laura Gonzalez (below).

The fragrance is my kind of citrus. Using an ancient artisanal technique that releases the essence of the bergamot peel using natural sea sponges, it opens with an initial cooling blast of bergamot and grapefruit that’s softened by a dry down of vetiver and cedarwood. After the initial spritz, the longevity isn’t that strong, which suits me – London is already an oppressive fug of oud and intense rose at this time of year, so I prefer this gentle woody yet refreshing skin scent. (Also, am I the only person who sprays a single – but firm – cloud of perfume and not several pumps?)
NEW Acqua di Parma Bergamotto La Spugnatura
Acqua di Parma Bergamotto La Spugnatura

Accompanying the EDP is the Acqua di Parma Bergamotto la Spugnatura Hair and Body Oil*, a more sensorial alternative to a perfume. I love the ritual of a body oil in summer, either in the morning post-shower or after sundown to use instead of perfume. And alongside Bergamotto, there’s the citrus-adjacent Blu Mediterraneo Fico di Amalfi Eau de Toilette* also in a new limited-edition Gonzalez-designed bottle, combining fig, citrus and cedarwood notes.

Or for the more gourmand-inclined, consider Acqua di Parma’s trio of delicious candles (below) leaning cool and milky rather than super-sweet; Sorbetto Al Limone*, Latte di Mandorla* (almond and iced milk – oh my!) and Granita al Gelso* (“mulberry and brioche with vanilla bourbon” – yes I’m drunk on the description).
Acqua di Parma gourmand scented candles

Other citruses of note, some new, some older. Tom Ford’s new Taormina Orange Eau de Parfum* is as juicy and sexy as you’d expect, tempered with a sophisticated twist of spicy cardamom oil. FYI: this one has staying power. Loewe has upgraded its Aire Sutileza Elixir Eau de Parfum* under new creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez with a high concentration of essential oils for stronger potency (below). The new version has the freshness of bergamot and lemon, the sharpness of pear plus a warm, grounding musk note.
Loewe Aire Sutileza Elixir Eau de Parfum

For me, Hermès colognes are frankly unsurpassable. Eau D’Orange Vert* and Eau de Citron Noir* are longstanding heatwave coolers, while their accompanying shower gels and soaps are essential duty-free reach-fors. Also for the shower, Arket’s Pomelo shower oil* is clean and refreshing with a side of cedarwood sweetness. And while not strictly citrus – but in the same outdoorsy summery wheelhouse – Dries van Noten’s new Basil and Hinoki Hand Cream* (below) is instantly uplifting, energising and comforting.
Dries van Noten Basil and Hinoki

What about you? Drop your citrus faves in the comments…

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WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES:  Alex Katz Still Life with Lemons, 1955; Acqua di Parma x 3; Loewe; Dries van Noten
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here.

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The wrong shoe



Gucci SS24 show

What’s the deal with fugly shoes? I thought they were a post-ironic anomaly, but no, the aesthetically displeasing Uggs, Crocs and Bottega-style Puddle boots are clearly sticking around.

Back in the day, a Margiela Tabi boot was seriously avant-garde and the perfect foil to your minimalist Lang/Demeulemeester/Sander little black suit. Now it’s a whole sub-franchise netting hefty sales for loyal retailers.

The #NewGucci SS24 show led by Sabato De Sarno garnered mixed reactions (more…)



Revisiting Omahyra Mota



“When I wear suits on the runway, when I’m doing a men’s show… I am not thinking that I look like a boy. [What] I am thinking the whole time is that I am just bringing the most in strength and expression; my eyes, the way I’m looking, the way I’m moving, it’s not more like a boy, it’s just strength, flavor, sauce, like swag.”

I love that Vogue has spotlighted the Y2K model Omahyra Mota, one of the most unique forces that modelling has seen in the last 20-odd years. There’s a fantastic gallery of her shows, reminding us not only of the timelessness of early noughties designers but how versatile her look really was. (more…)



Suddenly I want to smell like a coconut again



 Maya Njie Tropica fragrance

Well this is awkward. After a lifetime a year in relative isolation during which my longest journey away from home has been the decidedly unexotic Hastings pier, I find myself craving tropical coconut-laced smells.

That’s maybe not so surprising though. As with the power of touch and what’s known as ‘skin hunger’, the pandemic has not only literally stolen the sense of smell from some unlucky individuals, it has also heightened the link between scent and nostalgia.

“Fragrance can control your mood,” says perfumer and founder of her eponymous brand, Maya Njie. “If you’re feeling low and you need a boost, put fragrance on and it will elevate you.” (more…)