The joy revolution that started to emerge during the SS21 collections last September is fully showing up for SS22. The most prominent menswear shows have been the ones with a message of optimistic hedonism expressed through colour, music and a throwback to rave culture.
For example I loved Dries van Noten’s Primal Scream soundtrack serenading us through the streets of Antwerp, with the lyrics of Loaded encouraging us to “be free to do what we wanna do!” Van Noten expressed the mood of his design team as “clothes to go and have fun in. Just enjoy things. Go to the night club with silk shirts on.” The shirts were the big highlight; big in every sense, printed with artwork by Rubens and Breughel, as well as photomontages depicting Antwerp city scenes, teamed with loud sunglasses and washed silk outerwear (more…)
Here in the UK we’re quite deluded about sun care. Being deprived of bright sun for nine months of the year, we go a bit mad in the other three. And thus convince ourselves that sun protection doesn’t matter as it’s never strong enough. Or something.
This year though I need to get out of that mindset. One way is to get acquainted with the better sun care creams. But equally important is to try to cover up a bit more, stay out of direct sun, wear good sunglasses and invest in some decent headgear. Top of my wish list is thisArket seersucker sun hat* (above) but there are plenty of other inexpensive but versatile hats around in cotton, straw, linen and raffia.
Quite often the menswear shows give a peek into what the womenswear shows will look like. Even more so if you like your womenswear on the non froufrou side. So here’s a primer to myself on the menswear AW19 highlights so far. Valentino, Prada, and Jil Sander had the best knits, Vetements, the most interesting concept, and Dior and Raf Simons the best accessories.
Vetements was really interesting to me. A commentary on the dark web, the hoodie-balaclava hybrids were creepy but also symbolic of people wanting to withdraw into themselves. (more…)
Sublime squiggles, optimistic rainbow colours, shiny surfaces, utilitarian silhouettes and casual tailoring were the hallmarks of the Dries van Noten SS19 menswear collection. There are always so many styling elements to steal from a Dries show. He’s a sublime colourist and this season he collaborated with the Verner Panton estate to achieve these outstanding undulating prints… (more…)