London Fashion Week

The Burberry dilemma



Burberry AW23

Wow, London Fashion Week came back big time this season. Simone Rocha, S.S. Daley, JW Anderson and Moncler were the buzziest shows, but Burberry AW23* was the one with the highest expectations. Did it deliver? Hmmm, still not sure.

There were high hopes for a repeat of Daniel Lee’s work turning around Bottega Veneta. In particular, new CEO Jonathan Akeroyd is aiming to double Burberry’s leather business, so all eyes were on the bags. (more…)



Who’s excited for London Fashion Week?



Raf Simons

It’s been off the boil for a few seasons but it looks like London Fashion Week will be back in full IRL technicolour come September. So far, we’ve had news of Burberry and JW Anderson returning and Raf Simons showing in London for the first time (omg!). But just you wait (‘enry ‘iggins), I’m sure there will be more surprise announcements.

Do we dare hope for Phoebe Philo? What’s going on with that BTW? (more…)



London Fashion Week: Margaret Howell SS22



Alas, no Margaret Howell SS22 show this LFW season so a showroom visit had to suffice. No great hardship there though, as the showroom is situated at the back of the beautiful Wigmore Street store. I averted my eyes from new season Shetland knits and cotton khakis to focus attention on the new collection. Recent seasons have seen Howell embracing slightly more adventurous proportions and styling cues, as well as more ‘editorial’-style photography. I love it. My top 5 takeaways…


ATHLETIC STYLING.
Athletic pieces that take influence from retro gym styling and fabrications. Particularly the dry loopback sweats that can only improve with age (more…)



SS21 trend report: Molly Goddard



Molly Goddard SS21

Have to agree with catwalk critic Sue Evans, who commented on my earlier pondering to say that Molly Goddard’s SS21 collection was a strong expression of optimism and joy. It was her strongest yet, I thought, with commercial colour-block graphic knits and jerseys styled with her usual explosion-in-a-tulle factory froufrou skirts. (more…)