Wow, London Fashion Week came back big time this season. Simone Rocha, S.S. Daley, JW Anderson and Moncler were the buzziest shows, but Burberry AW23* was the one with the highest expectations. Did it deliver? Hmmm, still not sure.
There were high hopes for a repeat of Daniel Lee’s work turning around Bottega Veneta. In particular, new CEO Jonathan Akeroyd is aiming to double Burberry’s leather business, so all eyes were on the bags. (more…)
This week as I marinate in the damp, wind-battered streets of NW10, I’ve been reading all about the French mountain resort of Megève. In particular, the ‘chaletwear’ store AAllard that specialises in après-ski wear and whose founder Armand Allard actually invented the ‘fuseau’, aka the tapered, tailored stirrup pant that begat the stretchy ski pant as an early garment to tuck into ski boots. (When local ski champ Émile Allais wore them for his triple medal win in the 1937 world skiing championships, a trend was born.) (more…)
God I’m so bloody ready for spring, aren’t you? Granted I mean actual spring more than fashion spring but fashion spring is a good start. I was wondering if we’d see big changes for SS21 but I don’t think our post-Covid reality has quite revealed itself yet. So consider my spring post more of a general round-up of things I’m eyeing at the moment…
1/ TALISMAN JEWELLERY.Meaningful charms, amulets and talismans feel right for these pearl-clutching times and I’ve certainly found myself reaching for my dad’s old gold rings that I wear on a chain whenever I feel like I need some tactile reassurance. I’ve also been revisiting Tina Chow jewellery on Pinterest, along with the equally sculptural pendants of 1970s Elsa Peretti (below). (more…)
Quite often the menswear shows give a peek into what the womenswear shows will look like. Even more so if you like your womenswear on the non froufrou side. So here’s a primer to myself on the menswear AW19 highlights so far. Valentino, Prada, and Jil Sander had the best knits, Vetements, the most interesting concept, and Dior and Raf Simons the best accessories.
Vetements was really interesting to me. A commentary on the dark web, the hoodie-balaclava hybrids were creepy but also symbolic of people wanting to withdraw into themselves. (more…)