SS22

Death to minimalism?



The Row SS22

I’ve finished digesting all the SS22 collections and I think we can safely say we’re over the 2010s obsession with #oldceline-style ‘minimalism’.

I say ‘we’, but I don’t mean me.

Personally, I’m still here for what I call gentlewoman style; aka timeless pieces that straddle what we like to consider ‘masculine’ (tailoring, functionality) and ‘feminine’ (decoration, softness) dressing. I will never get bored of my baggy chinos and boyfriend 501s, Dries snakeskin boots, Equipment shirts and merino crew necks.

Professionally, yes it’s more exciting to write about the elaborate, hedonistic and whimsical and I’m tempted to bust out my Prada lip-print mules and Sergio Rossi raspberry moiré-silk heels. Schiaparelli was undeniably a Fashion Month highlight, as was Dries van Noten’s kaleidoscopic colour-fest. But it’s also fine by me if people (read: under 30s) would rather switch the Arket blazers and Acne knits for first wave reality TV garb à la The Simple Life-era low-rise jeans and triangle bandeau tops. (Uggs on the other hand? Not even Telfar* can tempt me to go there.) (more…)



At Miu Miu SS22 normcore meets corporatecore – complete with New Balance 574s



Miu Miu SS22

Loved the subverted normcore-meets-corporatecore vibes at Miu Miu SS22. The perfect coat, chinos, shorts, button downs and New Balance trainers, all in deconstructed proportions and styled with Miuccia-approved grey socks. And for after work, the chicest appliqued silk skirt suits and shift dresses.

Vogue described it as a ‘back-to-work wardrobe for the post-pandemic age’. As discussed here a year ago and again a couple of months ago, it’s a sign that young office workforce enterers want their slice of the corporate-wear life – but make it Fashion. (more…)



Shang Xia SS22 delivers super-luxe fashion for a future generation



Shang Xia SS22 PFW

An invigorating, palate-cleansing debut from Yang Li at Shang Xia SS22 yesterday.

The Beijing-born, Australia-raised designer showed his futuristic luxury vision for gen-2050 in a quest to put Chinese design centre stage. “It’s like imagining an empty chair at a round table of luxury fashion brands that should be for a Chinese representative. What a great mission to embark on. We’re going to give it our best go,” Li told Vogue.

As a breather from the maximalist showbiz of Fashion Month so far, we saw 90s-flavoured unlined leather coats and flat-front pants with signature Yang Li cape-detail dresses in fabrics that look deceptively simple from afar but I’m sure are ravishing when seen – and felt – in the flesh. Offsetting the sleek black separates were pops of neon orange and yellow on waistbands, box bags and surprisingly wearable trousers. The cool-girl casting and minimalist styling added to the appeal for me, not least as Joe McKenna was styling the show. (more…)