designers

Dries Van Noten: Say it ain’t so!



Dries van Noten X Gill Button

A sad week for Dries heads. It’s just been announced Dries Van Noten is stepping down from his namesake brand after 38 years and the fashion world is in mourning.

A thoroughly nice (and normal!) guy who respects women, a brilliantly consistent designer who charms through clever juxtapositions (more…)



Celine AW24: retro-modern minimalism plus a lipstick line



Celine Winter 24

Still a bit gutted that Hedi didn’t end up at Chanel. Ah well, Celine’s gain. Nothing crazy new to see here but his brand of retro-modernism for Winter 24 (just teased in a film) looks contemporary and cool – yet surprisingly un-grungy – in the way only Hedi’s can. (more…)



Quote of the day: Michael Chow



Michael Chow studio 1973 Barry Lategan

“It’s a photograph dress, not a wearing dress. And that reminds me of a story. This man sold a thousand tins of sardines, and the buyer rang him up and said, ‘I’ve just eaten one of your sardines. It was disgusting,’ and this man said, `You fool, they weren’t eating sardines, they were buying and selling sardines.’”
Michael Chow on Tina Chow’s Fortuny dress, Vogue, 1973 (more…)



Good clothes



Saint Laurent SS24 womenswear

I’m a bit sick of celebs and Insta clickbait dominating fashion. Some of my favourite fashion month shows were perhaps not Internet-breakingly epic, but were just great for wearable wardrobe candy and ace styling inspo. Yes, fashion week is for Big Ideas but there’s also room for consistent beauty.

I loved the quietly dramatic staging and focused rigour of Saint Laurent. The precisely cut jumpsuits, trousers and patch pocket shirts! The singular colour palette! The gloves, red lip and those aviators! (Don’t we all have a pair somewhere? And a bullet of Rouge Pur Couture?) This collection hammered home the house codes so clearly and confidently, all that was missing was maybe Paloma Picasso and Betty Catroux on the runway. (more…)