What to steal from Saint Laurent menswear SS26
It feels like my favourite moments of Paris Fashion Week men’s were the colour-drenched ones. Willy Chavarria’s saturated pinks, blues and yellows, and Saint Laurent’s nostalgic 70s Fire Island palette felt like a welcome answer-back to the monopoly of Cucinelli-meets-Piana muted neutrals. Add to that, deliberately skew-whiff styling (messy shirt collars at Dior, chappals and trackies at Prada) and the juxtaposition of casual with formal and there’s plenty of inspo to steal from the menswear rail. What’s more, you don’t have to wait till next summer, you can implement many of these ideas now…
These smart short shorts with formal shoes and socks (above and below) are gaining momentum season to season and are a look I can see tipping into the mainstream with a modification or two. A little note in the latest Fantastic Man mag made an interesting point about Prada menswear, suggesting that Mrs Prada sees shorts in the same way as skirts, a way to adjust the length of a garment and the corresponding amount of leg on show. Adding the formality of the smart-sock-and-shoe duo to something considered casual – the short short – is a fresh way to rethink styling and something everyone can play with. The tie doesn’t need to be taken literally and probably won’t (or will it?!), but it reinforces the ‘formal’ message in the equation.
Let’s talk about these strong shouldered shirts, transparent neon blouses and tissue-thin nylon cagoules (top and below). I love them and their slightly kinky undertone! Tucking an oversize K-Way* or similar into pleat-top tailored shorts has the same unexpected effect. Stick to more classic colours if you prefer, or thrift for some original 80s pieces in vibrant prints if you want to be more adventurous. At the TURN x Literary Sport pop-up in Paris, I clocked vintage Agnès b and IRIÉ, that would easily nail this look.
Echoing the masterful colourist skills of Mr Saint Laurent himself, Anthony Vaccarello excelled with his colour co-ordinations (below). A semi-precious jewel palette of amethyst, citrine, jade and sunset orange helped the washed silk shirts and diaphanous blouses pop against espresso brown silk taffeta tailoring.
Striped and piped PJs for day – so good! Saint Laurent showed elements of dishevelment in the most chic and controlled way. I love the crisp pyjama tops messily tucked into boxers and paper bag trousers (below). The deeper meaning may be a nod to ‘subtle gestures of exposure’ in reference to 1970s Fire Island queer codes, but superficially they just look relaxed, cool and ready for anything.
WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Saint Laurent menswear SS26
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here
CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book, The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman
CLICK HERE to buy my beauty book, Face Values: The New Beauty Rituals and Skincare
