Here’s the latest DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands and industry stories currently buzzing on my radar…
HEDI’S DEBUT AT CELINE
What are we to make of Celine 3.0? I loved Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme and Hedi at Saint Laurent, but I’m not sure how I feel about the exact same look at Celine. It all feels a bit… Sandro circa 2016 (which is kinder than the ‘H&M Divided’ comment on Insta). I did like the menswear though (which is actually unisex), and the women’s boots. (more…)
First impressions of Ricccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19 aka New Burberry? I thought he was very smart to open on those super grown up, chic, gentlewomanly pieces. Gorgeous honey-coloured trench coats with silky pleat skirts and scarf-style blouses, worn with elegant leather waist bags and stilettos. So not what we expected!
I noted that the younger models struggled on those pin heels (well they have been wearing Nikes for the last five years) but the supermodels (Stella, Natalia, Mariacarla et al) walked with grace and purpose. There was a little bit of Burberry check, but executed in a nuanced, respectful way, rather than the brash check of last season. (more…)
Fashion Week for press and VIPs really does seem to be a thing of the past these days. The best shows always seem to have an element of public spectacle – whether that’s Virgil Abloh’s debut as LouisVuitton’s menswear creative director (for which he invited hundreds of fashion students to watch) or Martine Rose’s Camden street show, which was literally staged in a residential street, with all the neighbours watching.
This week’s London Fashion Week SS19 shows coincide with the London Design Festival, which means retailers have the spotlight on both fashion and interior design. (more…)
Pyer Moss isn’t a household name but Robin Givhans’ Washington Post write-up spells out all the reasons why it’s the standout show of NYFW so far. Designer Kerby Jean-Raymond coralled a number of messages into one important and fantastic collection that I predict will be snapped up by buyers and collectors instantly.
As Givhans describes, Jean-Raymond expressed his vision of American blackness, not as ‘other’, but in the everyday sense of black culture. (more…)