Fashion shows

Raf Simons leaves Calvin Klein :(



Raf Simons leaves Calvin Klein

Yes, it’s true. In news that most fashion insiders saw coming, Raf Simons and Calvin Klein are parting ways.

It all started promisingly, with Raf’s arty Americana-themed debut well received by critics back in 2016. High points for me were the American quilts, Warhol collaborations, Western-influenced denim and those off-beat balaclavas. The Kardashians campaign lost me a bit and may well have been the point where Raf realised, maybe he wasn’t cut out for this level of commerciality. (more…)



Margaret Howell SS19



Margaret Howell SS19

I didn’t go to that many London Fashion Week shows this season. Unless you’re writing daily roundups, there’s really no reason to attend back to back shows when you can watch most of them on Instagram Stories. The exception is super-dramatic shows (Ashley Williams and Burberry sound like they had the best music) and shows where I’m personally invested in the brand.

Margaret Howell ticks that box for me in the mode of a couture client mentally ticking off the pieces I’m going to order. (more…)



The DRG Style Index: Celine, Instagram, Gucci Beauty, Joseph, The Harmonist



Here’s the latest DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands and industry stories currently buzzing on my radar…

HEDI’S DEBUT AT CELINE
Celine ss19 by Hedi Slimane
What are we to make of Celine 3.0? I loved Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme and Hedi at Saint Laurent, but I’m not sure how I feel about the exact same look at Celine. It all feels a bit… Sandro circa 2016 (which is kinder than the ‘H&M Divided’ comment on Insta). I did like the menswear though (which is actually unisex), and the women’s boots. (more…)



First impressions: Riccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19



Burberry ss19 by Jamie Stoker for Vogue International

First impressions of Ricccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19 aka New Burberry? I thought he was very smart to open on those super grown up, chic, gentlewomanly pieces. Gorgeous honey-coloured trench coats with silky pleat skirts and scarf-style blouses, worn with elegant leather waist bags and stilettos. So not what we expected!

I noted that the younger models struggled on those pin heels (well they have been wearing Nikes for the last five years) but the supermodels (Stella, Natalia, Mariacarla et al) walked with grace and purpose. There was a little bit of Burberry check, but executed in a nuanced, respectful way, rather than the brash check of last season. (more…)