Fashion shows

Trend report: what to wear for AW20



Hermes AW20 trend report - photo by Jamie Stoker

What a weird year! It feels odd talking about new-season trends, all things considered, but there is going to be a new season and even if you’re not buying, there are other ways to be inspired by newness. Let’s say it’s also a way of looking forward, so a sort of exercise in cautious optimism. Here’s what’s in the air for AW20… (more…)



Quote of the day: Douglas Keeve on Unzipped



Unzipped Isaac Mizrahi

“There were all these small designers who were kind of mad geniuses doing what they wanted, and it was about the beauty of [fashion]. And it went from creativity to commerce; now it’s all commerce—it’s all about numbers and [the] bottom line and focus groups. That’s what drives fashion now. It’s different worlds. It’s just different. It doesn’t mean there aren’t great people out there; it means that the business of fashion has superseded the art.” (more…)



Louis Vuitton menswear summer 2021 goes ‘seasonless’



Louis Vuitton menswear Summer 2021 Virgil Abloh

An interesting concept from Virgil Abloh for his Louis Vuitton menswear Summer 2021 collection.

Shown in Shanghai this week, his ‘seasonless’ strategy mixes past looks with new on the same runway. “This is debuting my future format of shows,” he told WWD. “We as humans want new things, we always want to go forward; the newest, fastest, shiniest things…[But] if my collection I debuted in January I believed in, by the time it gets to July, I still believe in it. It’s not that it’s so old that it can’t be seen ever again. I’m questioning that system by proposing that my collections are all as one.” Fair play! (more…)



On digital fashion weeks, craft and context



Loewe SS21 menswear

I’m catching up on the ss21 menswear collections that designers have been producing during lockdown.

An early trend is for three-dimensional or heavily crafted pieces and those with intricate surface decoration. Collaborations with artisans are another ‘thread’ to a brand story that designers can weave, showing support for their craft, or putting the spotlight on their own pattern makers.

Two standout videos I’ve enjoyed – Berluti and Loewe. (more…)