“I am doing it alone, out of my house, with external collaborators and ateliers. And I am so happy. I had 25 years of working in a big house. I learned a lot. Maybe what I learned most now is I don’t have to function like that. I don’t have to speed up a collection just because an executive tells me to speed up. Now I can be very artisanal. This is the heart of my work, my world. I am putting all my savoir-faire on the line. ”
Another designer on the go-slow train, Bouchra Jarrar is returning to fashion, at her own decelerated pace. The couturier who went to Lanvin RTW for a hot minute is following in the footsteps of other designers like Thakoon Panichgul, producing a very trim collection of signature pieces. (more…)
Kim Jones’ magic formula of collabs, couture techniques and club culture continues to hit the high notes for me. A few weeks after his Dior fall 2020 show, he presented his Dior winter 2020 at the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Where fall was casual, sporty and colour-saturated, winter is coolly majestic. (more…)
Wow, when did Wales Bonner get so slick, polished and commercial? I love it! The Wales Bonner AW20 mixed-gender show for London Fashion Week Mens was inspired by London’s 70s Lovers’ Rock scene. Specifically, the photos by John Goto of teenagers at Lewisham Youth Club, personally resonant for Grace Wales Bonner as her dad worked in the area back in the day.
I love the styling – sharp boxy blazers over shin-sweeping stripy tunics, shirts layered over polonecks and all the head gear and jewellery. (more…)
“I’m a commercial artist. I think things are going so well because I’m not afraid to do things that are commercial.” And therein lies the success of Kim Jones. His Dior men’s fall collection shown last Tuesday was highly anticipated by me and my fashion cohorts as soon as the collab with Shawn Stussy was announced. (more…)