Business of fashion

On digital fashion weeks, craft and context



Loewe SS21 menswear

I’m catching up on the ss21 menswear collections that designers have been producing during lockdown.

An early trend is for three-dimensional or heavily crafted pieces and those with intricate surface decoration. Collaborations with artisans are another ‘thread’ to a brand story that designers can weave, showing support for their craft, or putting the spotlight on their own pattern makers.

Two standout videos I’ve enjoyed – Berluti and Loewe. (more…)



Anti-racism real talk



Jeanie Annan-Lewin

Some of the most honest conversations around racism in the fashion and beauty industries are happening on IGTV.

I recommend Susie Bubble’s three-part conversation with stylist Jeanie Annan-Lewin, which answers the question of why so many black fashion professionals are freelance. (more…)



The editors’ exodus



Leandra Medine Manrepeller By Hunter Gatti

Phew, the list of media founders and editors ‘stepping down’ in the wake of racist misconduct gets longer by the hour.

This week we saw Leandra Medine ‘step back’ from Man Repeller, Refinery29 editor in chief Christene Barberich step down from the company she co-founded, Stephen Gan parting ways with Elle, and Condé Nast VP of video Matt Duckor exit the company. (more…)



So how did Digital London Fashion Week go?



Nicholas Daley AW20

Digital LFW was overall a bit of an anti-climax. Unlike many, I don’t ridicule the British Fashion Council for it. I applaud them for trying in #unprecedented times. The main criticisms of the new ‘digital hub’ format were that the content wasn’t exciting enough, there were too few new collections, the panel discussions were too focused on the same topic (Covid) and panellists were ‘the usual suspects’. (more…)