Design

The Bally formula



Bally SS25

“Dadaism was about a sense of play, and gentle subversion. What I’m looking for is finding equilibrium between rationality and whimsy.”

Bally was one of my MFW SS25 highlights. This is a masterclass in brand coding, when the pieces themselves are twisted classics rather than wholly avant-garde. Simone Bellotti knows the formula – simple pieces can be given romance, decadence, edginess etc with interesting casting, unexpected hair or makeup, memorable music (Bellotti worked with Swiss artist Aisha Devi on a bespoke soundtrack) and a clever incorporation of house codes.

Thus his new motif, the Swiss cowbell has become a recurring decorative feature on shoes and bags, he is building a recognisable colour palette of cool primaries with neutrals (black, brown), he is owning the Mary Jane, and the leather coat is becoming a new Bally wardrobe staple. (more…)

0 Comments , , , , , , , , , , ,



Fear of God AW24



Fear of God AW24

90s Armani is on everybody’s mood board right now and I’m not too upset about it. At Fear of God it’s been given an oversized mid-2020s twist but that’s fine by me.

Although… if somebody (Fear of God, Arket, COS, or just… anyone) could please think of the short girls and create an oversize silhouette in ‘petite’ sizes, I’d buy the whole lot. Just a thought. (more…)

2 Comments , , , , , , , ,



Celine Homme SS25: The Bright Young



Celine Homme SS25

I know it’s all about New York SS25 womenswear, but my head is in Paris SS25 menswear. Specifically Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine outing, ‘The Bright Young’. Shot in the manicured grounds of Holkham, Norfolk, Hedi Slimane is suggesting equally manicured, floppy-fringed, toff-chic in stripe-edged blazers, cashmere cricket whites, short shorts and red knee-high socks.

Some critics on The Fashion Spot complained that the English public* school sartorial references were too literal. But as someone around the same age as Hedi, I’d say it’s just an acknowledgement of an era you’re very familiar with and perhaps nostalgic for. (We could call it ‘Merchant-Ivory-core’). (more…)

0 Comments , , , , , , , , , ,



Quote of the Day: Véronique Nichanian



Veronique Nichanian Rob Report

“A beautiful fashion photo does not mean beautiful clothes.”
Artistic director of the Hermès men’s universe, Véronique Nichanian, Rob Report

It was a treat to read this profile of Hermès artistic director of the men’s universe, Véronique Nichanian in Robb Report. At 36 years and counting, she’s the longest-serving creative director in fashion who doesn’t have her name above the shop. Especially cute is her story of designing a striped cashmere rugby shirt for David Hockney. (more…)

0 Comments , , , , , ,



«< 3 4 5 6 7 >»