The culture of fashion: Alex Michon, shy punk (part 1)



Alex Michon

In December 2020, I interviewed my friend, the artist, writer and a director of Transition Gallery, Alex Michon for an article for Bon Magazine called ‘Can what you wear change who you are?’ I could only feature a couple of her soundbites in the piece, but on recently rediscovering the transcript, I realised she had some incredible insights into a pivotal time for young women and their attitude to clothes and self-expression. I spoke to her about her years designing and making clothes (alongside her friend Krystyna Kolowska) for The Clash at the peak of their influence along with her own personal style metamorphosis as a reaction to living in 1970s Britain. (more…)



Inbox hero: why fashion founder Substacks are the new influencers



Amy Smilovic

It’s only taken oh, circa 15 years, but fashion brand founders (and creative directors) have finally twigged that they are their own best brand ambassadors.

From their first baby steps on Instagram, when the likes of Linda V Wright, Nili Lotan and Tibi founder Amy Smilovic (above) showed their faces and styling prowess, pro tastemakers have gifted their customers a ‘real way’ insight into clever wardrobe building, versatile styling and non-hard-sell (yet paradoxically seductive) selling.

And now they go even better. Substack is proving the perfect platform for sharing not just fashion how-tos but other lifestyle recommendations – from travel to food to business know-how. (more…)



On Acme BOY and the T-shirt economy



Acme BOY The Birth of Punk and Anti-Fashion 1975-1985 by Phil Strongman Cover

Just finished reading an early copy of Phil Strongman’s Acme BOY: The Birth of Punk & Anti-Fashion 1975-1985*. It’s a riveting read with Strongman’s straight-shooting yet humorous tone giving us plenty of insider intel on the fashion and retail landscape of London’s legendary punk power players – Acme, Boy, SEX et al.

I enjoyed this little lesson on T-shirt economics. A tee is an easy thing to make and sell, is cheap as chips, yet it lends itself to all manner of self-expression. As he says here, if you’ve got the right attitude, a T-shirt can be your entire outfit. Very punk. (more…)



On my radar: Reluxe x Madewell



Reluxe x Madewell

Last week I had the pleasure of meeting Reluxe founder Clare Richardson briefly at a Reluxe x Sana Jardin breakfast event in the Reluxe store. Clare is better known to me through her styling work for publications including Vogue, Holiday and Wall Street Journal magazine, very much in the ‘gentlewoman style’ vein of classic but sexy dressing.

During her talk, Clare made the point that women founders are natural multi-hyphenates, which suits her as a freelance stylist but also explains her segue into founding a luxury resale business. She has smartly chosen to use her top tier fashion industry contacts to foster collabs with relevant brands, the latest being Madewell. (more…)