Malcolm McLaren

The culture of fashion: how the catwalk soundtrack got its groove



Michael Clark Bodymap fashion show - photograph by Robert Rosen courtesy BodyMap

Models! Clothes! Music! Fashion show soundtracks are increasingly part of shaping a brand’s identity. And in the digital era they’re about to become even more important…

The year was 2017. Kim Jones was menswear artistic director at Louis Vuitton. At the appointed hour, his first models sloped onto the Paris runway in iterations of slouchy 80s overcoats, baggy flannel trousers and Basquiat-style suits with untucked shirts. Then the kicker – internet-breaking Speedy holdalls emblazoned with red-and-white Supreme logos. And to add the crucial fourth musical dimension: Honey Dijon’s mix of Sound Factory bangers including Chez Damier’s Can You Feel It (MK Dub), completing the downtown New York nostalgia trip.

Since then, other notable catwalk soundtracks have included LaQuan Smith’s AW23 Ballroom fabulosity-fest; Benji B’s eerie David Lynch-like Chromatics mix for Jil Sander SS25 and Saint Laurent’s long-term music collaboration with DJ SebastiAn – so integral to the brand, they packaged it as a box set and sold it in Saint Laurent stores. (more…)



Intimidated? You’re welcome



Sheila Rock Young Punks King's Road Jordan

An alternative thought to last Thursday’s post about the cosy conviviality of the Alaïa cafe-bookshop.

Reading Sheila Rock’s excellent 2020 photo book, Young Punks, her photo of the decidedly uninviting facade of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s 1976 SEX shop (above) revealed an audacious weirdness with intimidating appeal that lured people in out of sheer curiosity. (more…)



On Acme BOY and the T-shirt economy



Acme BOY The Birth of Punk and Anti-Fashion 1975-1985 by Phil Strongman Cover

Just finished reading an early copy of Phil Strongman’s Acme BOY: The Birth of Punk & Anti-Fashion 1975-1985*. It’s a riveting read with Strongman’s straight-shooting yet humorous tone giving us plenty of insider intel on the fashion and retail landscape of London’s legendary punk power players – Acme, Boy, SEX et al.

I enjoyed this little lesson on T-shirt economics. A tee is an easy thing to make and sell, is cheap as chips, yet it lends itself to all manner of self-expression. As he says here, if you’ve got the right attitude, a T-shirt can be your entire outfit. Very punk. (more…)



The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren



The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren book by Paul Gorman

This Malcolm McLaren biography is likely to get a lot of attention from McLaren-heads when it comes out. Written by Paul Gorman, author of The Story of The Face, Mr Freedom and The Look: Adventures in Rock and Pop Fashion, he knows his fashion onions and you can trust he will have done thorough research. (I didn’t realise he was still writing his most excellent blog, Paul Gorman Is… Oops, maybe not.)

Back to Malcolm, The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren promises to be the definitive biography of the cross-cultural visionary whose influence looms larger than ever. (more…)