Vivienne Westwood

Intimidated? You’re welcome



Sheila Rock Young Punks King's Road Jordan

An alternative thought to last Thursday’s post about the cosy conviviality of the Alaïa cafe-bookshop.

Reading Sheila Rock’s excellent 2020 photo book, Young Punks, her photo of the decidedly uninviting facade of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s 1976 SEX shop (above) revealed an audacious weirdness with intimidating appeal that lured people in out of sheer curiosity. (more…)



On Acme BOY and the T-shirt economy



Acme BOY The Birth of Punk and Anti-Fashion 1975-1985 by Phil Strongman Cover

Just finished reading an early copy of Phil Strongman’s Acme BOY: The Birth of Punk & Anti-Fashion 1975-1985*. It’s a riveting read with Strongman’s straight-shooting yet humorous tone giving us plenty of insider intel on the fashion and retail landscape of London’s legendary punk power players – Acme, Boy, SEX et al.

I enjoyed this little lesson on T-shirt economics. A tee is an easy thing to make and sell, is cheap as chips, yet it lends itself to all manner of self-expression. As he says here, if you’ve got the right attitude, a T-shirt can be your entire outfit. Very punk. (more…)



R.I.P Vivienne Westwood



Vivienne Westwood 1987 by Michael Roberts for Vogue

A truly sad end of an era for fashion. Our most inspiring guiding light has left the building and I don’t have anything to say other than thank you for all you taught us about fashion, art, style, humility and humanity. (Because fashion is never just about clothes.)

Vivienne Westwood was endlessly misunderstood and frequently ridiculed but she stuck to what she believed. She was full of contradictions, but I admired her for her self-belief, incredible tenacity and rebellious spirit. (more…)



Rebel stylist: Caroline Baker – the woman who invented street fashion



Rebel Stylist - Caroline Baker for Vogue - photography Harri Peccinotti

If you’re struggling for killer fashion gift ideas, allow me to make a recommendation.

I’ve just received my copy of Rebel Stylist*, a fantastic delve into the story of fashion styling straight from the lips (and visual archive) of the lady who invented it all, Caroline Baker. Caroline is a legend in the industry. She has worked for everyone, from Nova magazine to The Face, Vogue and i-D, as well as with iconic designers and brands including Benetton (the Toscani ads), Katharine Hamnett and Vivienne Westwood. Not to mention photographers – Helmut Newton, Hari Peccinotti, Sarah Moon, Guy Bourdin, Saul Leiter. Every mainstream trend you can think of – layering, military surplus, power dressing, underwear-as-outerwear – she was there first, trailblazing well before most of us were in nappies. (more…)