Helmut Newton

Polly Mellen remembered



Polly Mellen

Thoughts and prayers to all the fashion journalists this week. I’m not sure what’s up with the planets but it’s been a whirlwind of arrivals, departures and confirmations.

The happy news is that Chanel has confirmed Matthieu Blazy as its next artistic director (following his successful three years at Bottega Veneta) and Bottega has confirmed Louise Trotter as Blazy’s replacement. Yes, I’m delighted!

The sad news is that John Galliano (AKA Johnny G – cute!) is departing Maison Margiela after ten years. Not sure where he goes next.

But very sad is the news that the incredible stylist and one of my fashion idols Polly Allen Mellen has died at the age of 100. (more…)



The Culture of fashion: Susy Dyson’s Cartier bangles



Cartier coloured enamel bangles

Think of Cartier classics and you probably think of Jeanne Toussaint’s panther-themed pieces or Aldo Cipullo’s 70s signatures, the Love bracelet or the Juste un Clou. But not so much pieces like these simple enamel hinged bangles from the 1980s (above).

This threesome (sold singly) is part of an auction taking place this week of 70s Peruvian model Susy Dyson’s jewellery and accessories. Dyson was a favourite model of Yves Saint Laurent, Armani, Karl Lagerfeld and Issey Miyake, not to mention Helmut Newton. Her personal style seen in the accompanying auction imagery sums up the casual-yet-jet-set glamour of the 70s. Youthful, free-spirited and chic, it straddles the high-low style and status that we now accept as standard. (more…)



Rebel stylist: Caroline Baker – the woman who invented street fashion



Rebel Stylist - Caroline Baker for Vogue - photography Harri Peccinotti

If you’re struggling for killer fashion gift ideas, allow me to make a recommendation.

I’ve just received my copy of Rebel Stylist*, a fantastic delve into the story of fashion styling straight from the lips (and visual archive) of the lady who invented it all, Caroline Baker. Caroline is a legend in the industry. She has worked for everyone, from Nova magazine to The Face, Vogue and i-D, as well as with iconic designers and brands including Benetton (the Toscani ads), Katharine Hamnett and Vivienne Westwood. Not to mention photographers – Helmut Newton, Hari Peccinotti, Sarah Moon, Guy Bourdin, Saul Leiter. Every mainstream trend you can think of – layering, military surplus, power dressing, underwear-as-outerwear – she was there first, trailblazing well before most of us were in nappies. (more…)



THE DRG STYLE INDEX: VALENTINO, STUDIO NICHOLSON, MAC, GOOGLE



Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…

1. VALENTINO X ZANDRA RHODES
Valentino X Zandra Rhodes
If you loved the Zandra Rhodes prints at the Valentino SS17 show, then you can see more behind the inspiration and process on the Zandra Rhodes website. The word ‘collaboration’ gets thrown around a lot, but this is a true collab, where both sides are equally supportive and excited about it. (more…)