Nova

What’s in my bag: styling assistants’ edition



Assistants book 3rd Cover
I recently interviewed Caroline Baker (former super-stylist and fashion editor) for my next book and we talked about her favourite styling ‘tool’, the safety pin. Returning from a Nova magazine shoot in Japan via Thailand in the 1970s, she spent 24 hours in Bangkok where she noticed a recurring styling detail on the locals; their blue jackets fastened with safety pins.

“So I did a spread with Harry Peccinotti. Nova loved double page spreads, so we did a safety pin over a double page spread, holding together this sweet little jacket. I love safety pins, so when John Lydon came out, that was his symbol and suddenly safety pins became it. It came to be an outside thing and it was OK. Because [previously] if you safety pinned your clothes, you would hide them if you were a well bought up girl. And as a stylist, you become aware of safety pins, because you have to safety pin the clothing to fit the model, so that you never shot anybody from the back.” (more…)



Rebel stylist: Caroline Baker – the woman who invented street fashion



Rebel Stylist - Caroline Baker for Vogue - photography Harri Peccinotti

If you’re struggling for killer fashion gift ideas, allow me to make a recommendation.

I’ve just received my copy of Rebel Stylist*, a fantastic delve into the story of fashion styling straight from the lips (and visual archive) of the lady who invented it all, Caroline Baker. Caroline is a legend in the industry. She has worked for everyone, from Nova magazine to The Face, Vogue and i-D, as well as with iconic designers and brands including Benetton (the Toscani ads), Katharine Hamnett and Vivienne Westwood. Not to mention photographers – Helmut Newton, Hari Peccinotti, Sarah Moon, Guy Bourdin, Saul Leiter. Every mainstream trend you can think of – layering, military surplus, power dressing, underwear-as-outerwear – she was there first, trailblazing well before most of us were in nappies. (more…)



Street style before ‘Street Style’



Diana Vreeland featured in Nova 1969 photographed by Steve Hiett via Magazine Fan
The SS22 fashion weeks are almost upon us and with them, the return of IRL street style.

I’m reminded of these old shots from the September 1969 issue of Nova magazine, by the sadly departed Steve Hiett, who captured fashion editors in the wild, in the days before they were the main attraction.

What I like about these editors is they look like they’re dressed to work, rather than to be photographed. (more…)



Quote of the day



“I started putting girls in men’s clothes. Yves Saint Laurent had just produced the tuxedo, but who could afford Yves Saint Laurent? So I went to Moss Brothers, where they had a great second-hand department. It didn’t have to fit, just put a gold belt around it and then wear high heels.”
The inimitable Godmother of Styling, Caroline Baker on styling the 70s*, 10 Magazine

*It all sounds very French Vogue…