Designers

Pieter Mulier to Maison Alaïa



Pieter Mulier creative director Alaïa ss22

Some exciting news on the designer front. Pieter Mulier, the one-time secret weapon of Raf Simons (who can forget his stand out supporting role in Dior & I?) has been appointed creative director at Alaïa.

This sounds like an excellent appointment, with Mulier promising to retain Azzedine Alaïa’s “legacy of celebrating femininity and placing women at the heart of creation”, hopefully with a modern hand. I imagine Richemont will expect a big ROI with fulsome collections of clothes, accessories (and maybe even beauty?) but hopefully they can also find a way to imbue some of the slower pace Alaïa was known for with his ‘it comes when it comes’ schedules. (more…)



Aldo Cipullo – making jewellery modern



Cartier by Tina Tyrell for Harper's Bazaar

I noticed that Cartier is spotlighting its classics archive, an unsurprising move as customers are feeling the pinch and prefer to invest in long-time keepables. Good timing then for this beautiful new Assouline book* on Aldo Cipullo, who was responsible for such cornerstone pieces as Cartier’s Love* and Juste Un Clou bracelets.

Cipullo - Making Jewellery Modern book

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Ideas to steal from the Prada menswear AW21 show



Prada menswear aw21 set design

It’s men’s digital fashion month and couture week at the moment, so I’m trying to keep up with all the content. What I notice is that without the physical shows, it’s really all on the brands to keep the content coming on their various platforms. I missed the Prada menswear Live transmission, so I watched it on IG catch up instead. It was the first Raf-ccia joint menswear collection for Prada, following the womenswear debut last October. (more…)



Dior X Kenny Scharf AW21 is the post-pop post-pandemic tonic we all need



Dior X Kenny Scharf AW21

Wow, what a trip!

When I heard Dior menswear was collaborating with Kenny Scharf for AW21 I tried to keep my expectations in check. You never know quite which way these things will go, but I’m happy to report the collection looks superb.

Scharf is a painter who achieved fame in the 80s alongside his NYC club kid cohorts Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat. I didn’t get my first close-up look of his eye-popping work till the late 80s. (more…)