Designers

Hedi Slimane’s ‘age of indieness’ returns for Celine AW23



Celine AW23

“You can only be lucky enough to have one style, a style of your own that becomes a caricature of you, your own ‘sound. I’m probably synonymous [with] punk rock and indieness in fashion, beside being known for my androgynous models. I have been precisely this in fashion for more than 20 years. This is the caricature I gladly own.”
Hedi Slimane

Proof that if you just stand still and do your thing, fashion eventually catches up with you, Hedi Slimane is once again haute stuff. With revenue doubled since his arrival, Slimane’s recent LA Celine AW23 show (part fashion show, part ‘indie sleaze’ rock concert) unapologetically brought his own greatest hits front and centre. (more…)

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The culture of fashion: A Halstonette’s ephemera for sale



Halston

“Halston worked with glamazon models like the late great Naomi Sims (draped in white silk jersey), Marina Schiano, and Elsa Peretti. Elsa came out with her head bowed in a black fedora. Backstage, I congratulated her on her wonderful presence. She shrugged her shoulders and exclaimed in her lyrical voice, “But Nancy, I bowed my head because I was so scared!” It was a time of models with great personalities – these women had unique styles. Elsa had that Warhol style that embraced the unpredictable yet fascinating.”

The above is from an interesting Q&A with Halstonette Nancy North, who is auctioning items including Elsa Peretti jewellery, Halston fashion sketches and candid snaps of Halston and co at Doyle today. My imaginary paddle is poised for the Antonio Lopez illustrations… (more…)

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Raf Simons is quitting his label



Raf Simons

Oof, I wasn’t expecting that. With a lone post on his IG, Raf Simons announced that after 27 years, he’s quitting his own label.

Say it ain’t so!

No concrete explanation has been given and responses have been varied, from “finally – because no one was buying it” to an outpouring of crying emojis (mine).

Of course, he’s continuing as co-creative director of Prada, which has led to some speculation that Raf is being groomed as Miuccia’s successor should she decide to retire. Others suggested maybe there’s a ‘second act’ to come. After all, his note ends on, “Forward always”. (more…)

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Maureen Doherty, a good egg



Maureen Doherty Egg

“I’m not trying to make anything new. There’s so much pressure in fashion to every six months have this newness. When I opened Egg, I wanted it to be like a chair: well that’s OK for 10 years. It’s not for six months; it’s 10 years. I like the fact that it can be an heirloom.”
Egg founder, Maureen Doherty, Hole & Corner (more…)

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