“I aspire to look like a ‘90s-era Gap model,” Khaite’s Catherine Holstein told Business of Fashion at her AW22 New York Fashion Week show. It’s a handy descriptor, because 90s Gap was pretty special and there’s definitely a big 90s normcore mood pervading the air at the mo.
The AW22 Khaite show had a bit of that classic Gap energy mixed with 1990s Self Service magazine – all big leather jackets, small skirts, dark tights and light shoes. (more…)
Loved the subverted normcore-meets-corporatecore vibes at Miu Miu SS22. The perfect coat, chinos, shorts, button downs and New Balance trainers, all in deconstructed proportions and styled with Miuccia-approved grey socks. And for after work, the chicest appliqued silk skirt suits and shift dresses.
Vogue described it as a ‘back-to-work wardrobe for the post-pandemic age’. As discussed here a year ago and again a couple of months ago, it’s a sign that young office workforce enterers want their slice of the corporate-wear life – but make it Fashion. (more…)
Fashion week is officially all year long now. We’ve just seen another spurt of shows – from Celine, Gucci and Bottega Veneta (they had an event in a club in Berlin, while the rest of the city’s in a strict lockdown, and allegedly hired Soho House for the afterparty, kicking out existing residents – not cool!) – while other brands are doing smaller scale ‘activations’ and releasing their look books.
I’m very much into Bode at the moment and its unique way of telling stories through textiles. These Bode AW21 looks have the nostalgic charm of early Alessandro Michele for Gucci mixed with a Wes Anderson naivety without going full-on costume. It feels more real to me. (more…)
I feel rather disconnected from Fashion Month this season but this image caught my attention.
It’s last Thursday’s Christian Siriano SS21 show and the colours, plus olde worlde Slim Aaron’s-esque glamour (tempered with the now-normal sight of a Covid mask), place it firmly in the space of aspirational longing. Longing for parties, whimsy and unbridled joy instead of caution and pragmatism.
My overarching goal for following the SS21 shows is to understand what ‘fashion’ is going to look like for all of us for the next few years. (more…)