13 February, 2024

Ballet-core meets actors-in-rehearsal at Altuzarra AW24

Altuzarra AW24

“I wanted it to feel like walking into someone’s wardrobe that they’ve collected over a long period of time, where things feel like they say something about the person’s personality.”

Joseph Altuzarra* celebrated his 15th anniversary with an intimate salon show that mixed the cosplay romance of ballet and theatre – the clothes that actors wear in rehearsal – with upscale wardrobe longevity. To that end, there were long, roomy girl-about-town coats layered over fluid, calf-length skirts, flat pumps and opaque dancers’ tights, peacoats and duffles, Deborah Turbeville-style cuffed knit joggers, plus great styling from Pierrot doll collars and toque-style hats. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 3 Comments Brands, Designers, Fashion shows, News Altuzarra, AW24, Fashion Week, Joseph Aluzarra

16 February, 2022

Bridging the 90s gap at Khaite AW22

Khaite AW22

“I aspire to look like a ‘90s-era Gap model,” Khaite’s Catherine Holstein told Business of Fashion at her AW22 New York Fashion Week show. It’s a handy descriptor, because 90s Gap was pretty special and there’s definitely a big 90s normcore mood pervading the air at the mo.

The AW22 Khaite show had a bit of that classic Gap energy mixed with 1990s Self Service magazine – all big leather jackets, small skirts, dark tights and light shoes. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Magazines, News, Trends 1990s, AW22, Business of Fashion, Diane Kendal, Fashion Week, Gap, Guido Palau, Khaite, New York Fashion Week, Self Service, Vanessa Traina

6 October, 2021

At Miu Miu SS22 normcore meets corporatecore – complete with New Balance 574s

Miu Miu SS22

Loved the subverted normcore-meets-corporatecore vibes at Miu Miu SS22. The perfect coat, chinos, shorts, button downs and New Balance trainers, all in deconstructed proportions and styled with Miuccia-approved grey socks. And for after work, the chicest appliqued silk skirt suits and shift dresses.

Vogue described it as a ‘back-to-work wardrobe for the post-pandemic age’. As discussed here a year ago and again a couple of months ago, it’s a sign that young office workforce enterers want their slice of the corporate-wear life – but make it Fashion. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, News, Trends Fashion Week, Miu Miu, New Balance, Normcore, SS22, trends

18 April, 2021

Bode menswear AW21

Bode AW21

Fashion week is officially all year long now. We’ve just seen another spurt of shows – from Celine, Gucci and Bottega Veneta (they had an event in a club in Berlin, while the rest of the city’s in a strict lockdown, and allegedly hired Soho House for the afterparty, kicking out existing residents – not cool!) – while other brands are doing smaller scale ‘activations’ and releasing their look books.

I’m very much into Bode at the moment and its unique way of telling stories through textiles. These Bode AW21 looks have the nostalgic charm of early Alessandro Michele for Gucci mixed with a Wes Anderson naivety without going full-on costume. It feels more real to me. (more…)