Best casting and styling ever from Haider Ackermann’s first menswear show. Early trends coming through for menswear ss14 include structured tunic tees, 50s Harrington jackets, post-pop graphics and sloganeering, lots of leather, extreme trouser shapes (super-wide peg at Topman Design, meggings at Gucci, culottes at Jil Sander) and more wonkiness following aw13. Plus on the hair front, lots of fabulous quiffy dos!
“For menswear, the shows coincide with delivery. When the men’s editors arrive in Milan, on Friday afternoon most people go, straight away, to Prada and it’s the Prada fight. Who can buy it first? Then we go and see the new show. You have to do it before the new show, while the old show is still ‘the new show’.”
Charie Porter discusses ‘newness’ at the menswear shows in BON International
Well who’d have thunk it? Six years ago today, I started a fashion blog. This very one, in fact, albeit on a Blogspot platform with a slightly clunky white-text-on-black-background layout. If you scroll back far enough, you can see my early posts; embarrassing though they are, I’ve not deleted them as it’s good to remember the journey.
My six year anniversary coincides with a pithy New York Times T Magazine story by Suzy Menkes lamenting the blog mob and the changes in fashion media and critiquing. Do read it, it’s certainly thought provoking. Alas, Menkes does come across as slightly jaded in her disapproval. Flagging up the common practice of ‘bloggers’ (read: the Fashion Week style blogger elite) who get photographed in next season’s looks, often gifted by designers in exchange for coverage, she reminds us that real reporters don’t play the gifting game (or ‘bribery’ as she puts it). It’s a funny one I admit. On the one hand, why not help give young designers exposure by wearing their clothes, if it will give them a leg-up and boost your visual presence as well? On the other hand, when the pre- and post-show peacocking starts to get more attention than the shows themselves, then that clearly signals a change in how things are working. Is it dumbing down though? or is it just an evolution in how fashion is seen and consumed now?
Six years ago, no-one even considered any of this stuff. As a phenomenon, it simply didn’t exist yet. Instagram didn’t exist, Vine didn’t exist, Twitter was in its infancy and Anna Dello Russo was just another jobbing fashion editor. How would fashion have weathered the recessions were it not for fashion blogs, Fashion Week street style and the powerful role they played in opening up the fashion industry to the masses? More pertinent still; where will fashion, blogging and the street style strutters be in another six years time? I guess that’s for us to witness, while documenting the process…
Thanks for the last six years of support!
Image: Stefania Yarhi/Textstyles – NYT
“I always say that I would rather spend a week at Rikers Island or the hospital than do Fashion Week. Don’t you think it’s like school? It’s sort of divided up into periods and it has mean girls and you go from one class to another. It’s the worst.”
Lynn Yaeger, New York Observer, 2009