Designers

Italian romance from Zanini AW21



Zanini AW21

I’ve never experienced Zanini’s clothes IRL, but you just know they’re the kind of clothes that improve with age. The Zanini AW21 collection illustrates this so well, even when viewed, as I have, through a three-inch Instagram square.

The fabrics are just lush. The slate black double-breasted coat (above) is a linen-and-wool herringbone lined in quilted cotton-linen, giving it slouchy dressing gown vibes in keeping with the at-home comfort mood of the moment. (more…)



Positive fashion: Cut n sew



Wright Le Chapelain deconstructed shirt

I just stumbled upon Wright Le Chapelain on Instagram, a fashion brand with an early 90s Margiela-esque ethos and aesthetic.

The designers source secondhand shirts from the Crisis UK charity and upcycle them into new deconstructed pieces alongside suitings sourced from British heritage mills. During Covid, this local sourcing strategy has kept the business afloat. (more…)



Udjat for Harper’s Bazaar Arabia



Udjat Harper's Bazaar Arabia

One of my great discoveries of the year so far: an Egyptian brand called Udjat.

I was commissioned by Harper’s Bazaar Arabia to write about this fantastic new line, which celebrates the culture and craft of Egypt through fashion and home objects. The co-founder Louis Barthélemy is a very interesting character, something of a polymath, who has created textile designs for Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo and Dior (check out his incredible art here). But the Udjat collection grabbed my attention with its relaxed shirt shapes, intricate embroidery and wonderful photography. (more…)



The ‘nouveau romance’ of Celine menswear AW21



Celine men winter 21

Chapeaus off to GQ’s Rachel Tashjian, who wrote this very astute critique of Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine menswear collection. And the brand’s overall current appeal.

“His clothing is probably the most intelligently merchandised stuff on the planet. He is making clothes to sell them, proving with every one of his choices why you need them…When you go into a Celine shop, or look at the brand’s e-commerce, you see something so clear and intelligent it might make you mad at other big fashion brands: a few perfect blazers, a leather motorcycle jacket, a leather blouson, a suede trucker jacket, and so on. All the pants are just right. The loafers, sneakers, and boots are just the kind you’re looking for when you don’t know what you’re looking for. Slimane is actually thinking about someone going into a store to buy clothing. What might they want?” (more…)