17 February, 2025

Calvin Klein: Nostalgia or Now?

Calvin Klein Collection SS25

Lots of people have been in my DMs asking for my thoughts on the Calvin Klein Collection reboot. Lies! One person asked, but I’m here to share my two cents anyway.

This show was the most highly anticipated of NYFW. If the relaunch of a 5-decades-old label is what’s getting people hyped about NYFW, that says rather a lot about the state of ennui. So, Veronica Leoni (formerly of The Row and Phoebe’s Celine) had a great deal resting on her spaghetti-strapped shoulders.

The show was beautiful. It was clean, serene, elegant and poised. It looked like 1990s Old Calvin. But is that a compliment? Or a problem? (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Ad campaigns, Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, News, Trends Calvin Klein, Celine, COS, designers, fashion shows, Khaite, NYFW, Phoebe Philo, Raf Simons, SS25, The Row, trends, Veronica Leoni

6 February, 2025

Japanese convenience chain FamilyMart is getting a fashion glow-up

Nigo announced as FamilyMart creative director

The vogue for hypebeast grocers (documented in my aw24 trend report) continues.

News just in: Japanese streetwear wonderkid Nigo has been named creative director for convenience store chain FamilyMart. If you’re thinking Tesco or Co-Op, it’s a bit more significant than that. The convenience store game in Japan is way bigger than plastic-packed egg sandwiches and lottery tickets. They do everything from letting you pay bills and print documents to selling underwear and toothbrushes for on-the-go white collar workers. And their snack aisles are legendary. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, News, Retail concepts, Trends Erewhon, FamilyMart, NIGO, Pharrell Williams, retail concepts, trends

31 January, 2025

Oh, Dior! Kim Jones is leaving, is Maria G-C next?

Kim Jones Dior mens winter 2019-2020

It’s official. After weeks of speculation, it’s been confirmed that Kim Jones is leaving Dior menswear after seven years.

I’ve really liked most of what Kim has done at LVMH (apart from Fendi – sorry!) and have routinely posted his Dior menswear shows here as he’s been an early adopter of using traditionally ‘feminine’ tropes in his collections, like certain couture techniques, styling tricks (brooches!), not to mention repopularising the women’s 1990s saddlebag for men. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Art, Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News, Trends Business of Fashion, collabs, designers, Dior, Kim Jones, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Raymond Pettibon

24 January, 2025

The aspirational familiarity of Lemaire and Auralee AW25

Auralee AW25

While the major fashion brands have seemingly gone nuts with their pricing, it makes sense that a certain demographic has shifted attention to Lemaire and Auralee. Both just showed at the menswear shows – precise (and practical) layering, easy-but-interesting silhouettes, harmonious colour palettes and distinctive accessories. Lemaire’s outerwear is particularly desirable with their gently exaggerated shoulders and I love the dopamine hits of red and green at Auralee (reminding me of Bally SS24). (more…)