30 October, 2024

The culture of fashion: Alex Michon, shy punk (part 1)

Alex Michon

In December 2020, I interviewed my friend, the artist, writer and a director of Transition Gallery, Alex Michon for an article for Bon Magazine called ‘Can what you wear change who you are?’ I could only feature a couple of her soundbites in the piece, but on recently rediscovering the transcript, I realised she had some incredible insights into a pivotal time for young women and their attitude to clothes and self-expression. I spoke to her about her years designing and making clothes (alongside her friend Krystyna Kolowska) for The Clash at the peak of their influence along with her own personal style metamorphosis as a reaction to living in 1970s Britain. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 2 Comments Design, Designers, Films, Menswear, Music, News Alex Michon, culture of fashion, design, Janette Beckman, Jeannette Lee, long read, music, Patti Smith, punk, The Clash, The Slits, youth culture

24 October, 2024

Inbox hero: why fashion founder Substacks are the new influencers

Amy Smilovic

It’s only taken oh, circa 15 years, but fashion brand founders (and creative directors) have finally twigged that they are their own best brand ambassadors.

From their first baby steps on Instagram, when the likes of Linda V Wright, Nili Lotan and Tibi founder Amy Smilovic (above) showed their faces and styling prowess, pro tastemakers have gifted their customers a ‘real way’ insight into clever wardrobe building, versatile styling and non-hard-sell (yet paradoxically seductive) selling.

And now they go even better. Substack is proving the perfect platform for sharing not just fashion how-tos but other lifestyle recommendations – from travel to food to business know-how. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Bloggers, Brands, Business of fashion, Designers, News, Trends Amy Smilovic, Ann Mashburn, blogging, Business of Fashion, designers, influencers, Linda V Wright, long read, Somsack Sikhounmuong, Sporty & Rich, Substack

22 October, 2024

On Acme BOY and the T-shirt economy

Just finished reading an early copy of Phil Strongman’s Acme BOY: The Birth of Punk & Anti-Fashion 1975-1985*. It’s a riveting read with Strongman’s straight-shooting yet humorous tone giving us plenty of insider intel on the fashion and retail landscape of London’s legendary punk power players – Acme, Boy, SEX et al.

I enjoyed this little lesson on T-shirt economics. A tee is an easy thing to make and sell, is cheap as chips, yet it lends itself to all manner of self-expression. As he says here, if you’ve got the right attitude, a T-shirt can be your entire outfit. Very punk. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Books, Designers, Music, Trends books, Johnson's, Kensington Market, Malcolm McLaren, Phil Strongman, punk, retail concepts, Roger K Burton, Vivienne Westwood

25 September, 2024

The Bally formula

Bally SS25

“Dadaism was about a sense of play, and gentle subversion. What I’m looking for is finding equilibrium between rationality and whimsy.”

Bally was one of my MFW SS25 highlights. This is a masterclass in brand coding, when the pieces themselves are twisted classics rather than wholly avant-garde. Simone Bellotti knows the formula – simple pieces can be given romance, decadence, edginess etc with interesting casting, unexpected hair or makeup, memorable music (Bellotti worked with Swiss artist Aisha Devi on a bespoke soundtrack) and a clever incorporation of house codes.

Thus his new motif, the Swiss cowbell has become a recurring decorative feature on shoes and bags, he is building a recognisable colour palette of cool primaries with neutrals (black, brown), he is owning the Mary Jane, and the leather coat is becoming a new Bally wardrobe staple. (more…)