Funny isn’t it, how quickly one adapts. In one season the media and public have flipped from hating Hedi’s take on Celine to kind of loving it.
When Hedi Slimane showed his first vision of new Celine, Phoebe Philo’s fan club were bereft. They swarmed to Vestiaire Collective to buy up whatever Phoebe-era #oldceline bags and shoes they could get their hands on, freaking out that her conceptual-lite aesthetic had been obliterated by evil Hedi in place of – the horror! – generic luxury tropes of the sort he’d previously produced at Saint Laurent.
Six months later though, they’ve calmed down and come round. (more…)
This felt like an extremely polished London Fashion Week. Roksanda, JW Anderson, Victoria Beckham and particularly Mary Katrantzou showed mature, slick collections that nailed their individual DNAs. And while you expect the newbies to be a bit scrappier in their presentation, they too were impressively coherent.
I was blown away by Matty Bovan, who, assisted by Katie Grand’s crack styling team and a helping hand from Coach, delivered a super-sophisticated spectacle reminiscent of Westwood or Galliano. His USP is a very British artsy-craftsy take on knitwear that was bricolaged with crochet, ruffles and Liberty-print florals (more…)
Burberry just unveiled its first ad campaign under Riccardo Tisci. I like that it used a range of different photographers rather than just one, including the brilliant Nick Knight (below, with models standing in front of a painting by British artist, Jenny Saville) alongside two of my other faves, Colin Dodgson (above) and Letty Schmiterlow.
And in a further push for inclusivity, it’s featured Stella Tennant who is one of my favourite 90s models (more…)
“Since Hedi [Slimane] started working in fashion, and in his photography even before that, he has always explored androgyny; he’s never drawn a strict gender distinction. Everyone has both a masculine and a feminine side. He wants both fields to have their own personality.”