16 January, 2024

Nautical niceties for AW24 menswear

SS Daley AW24

There’s nothing new about nautical themes in fashion, but we can never get enough of them. SS Daley is my AW24 menswear highlight so far (above and below). Styled by Harry Lambert, it’s a romantic, eclectic take on the Oxbridge student life of a bygone era, with an added nautical influence via an E.M Forster story about an English boy’s encounter with an Italian fisherman. Give me all the messy layering, practical headgear, fish-print foulards and pops of yellow please. Amy de la Haye’s ‘Ship Shape’ (act 2 of ‘Oh Boy! Dressing Boys 1750-1930’) exhibition at the Fashion & Textile Museum looks like a good source for further maritime-themed inspo. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Ad campaigns, Brands, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, Photography, Trends Armani, AW24, Harry Lambert, menswear, SS Daley

11 January, 2024

Ready for the drop

Phoebe Philo drop waist leather jacket

Is it me manifesting the 1924-style optimism of the deco-era or is there really a rising tide of flapper-esque dresses and hip-riding silhouettes on the horizon? Putting aside my theory that the 2020s hasn’t properly started yet and that 2024 could be The Year (admittedly based on nothing more than blind hope), the evidence is pointing to the latter. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Design, Designers, News, Photography, Shoots, Trends Burberry, Chanel, COS, Pamela Hanson, Phoebe Philo, photography, Prada, shopping, SS24, Tibi, trends, V&A

8 December, 2023

Armani, Armani, Ar-Ar-Armani

Alessandra Carlsson Beri Smither Harue Miyamoto for Emporio Armani by Peter Lindbergh 1989

Before The Row, Lemaire and Brunello Cucinelli, there was Calvin, Donna and best of all, Giorgio. A fabric meister, rigorous deconstructor (before Margiela), uber-minimalist yet (contrary to expectation) anti-perfectionist, Giorgio Armani is the godfather of what we now call ‘quiet luxury’.

Fantastic Man has a, well, fantastic deep dive on the man himself in its latest issue, as well as a mention of Made In Milan, Martin Scorsese’s 1990 mini-documentary, that gives us a delicious glimpse into Mr Armani’s influences and philosophies. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Ad campaigns, Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Films, Menswear, News, Photography, Shopping, Trends American Gigolo, Armani, Chanel, culture of fashion, films, Martin Scorsese, menswear

17 November, 2023

Follow a stylist

Suzanne Koller T Magazine Keizo Kitajima

Influencers, schminfluencers! If you want styling ideas, better to follow the stylists.

Compared to photographers, the best in the biz are still fairly elusive on Instagram (where are you, Joe McKenna?!) but once you locate them, they’re worth checking in with. They tend to repeat their tricks across the brands and publications they work for, so it’s easy to see all their ideas and influences in one place. (more…)