Telfar

Death to minimalism?



The Row SS22

I’ve finished digesting all the SS22 collections and I think we can safely say we’re over the 2010s obsession with #oldceline-style ‘minimalism’.

I say ‘we’, but I don’t mean me.

Personally, I’m still here for what I call gentlewoman style; aka timeless pieces that straddle what we like to consider ‘masculine’ (tailoring, functionality) and ‘feminine’ (decoration, softness) dressing. I will never get bored of my baggy chinos and boyfriend 501s, Dries snakeskin boots, Equipment shirts and merino crew necks.

Professionally, yes it’s more exciting to write about the elaborate, hedonistic and whimsical and I’m tempted to bust out my Prada lip-print mules and Sergio Rossi raspberry moiré-silk heels. Schiaparelli was undeniably a Fashion Month highlight, as was Dries van Noten’s kaleidoscopic colour-fest. But it’s also fine by me if people (read: under 30s) would rather switch the Arket blazers and Acne knits for first wave reality TV garb à la The Simple Life-era low-rise jeans and triangle bandeau tops. (Uggs on the other hand? Not even Telfar* can tempt me to go there.) (more…)



Street style, but make it corporate



Wall Street style

Love this New York Times photo-feature on what Wall Street is wearing now.

New York Times picture editor Brent Murray worked with photographer Melodie Jeng on this Bill Cunningham-style photo study to ascertain the current corporate dress code of the city’s New Normal.

So where are we?

Post-pandemic we’re seeing bankers and lawyers loosening up in slim chinos, tieless shirts and ballet flats, with additional sightings of trainers, Telfar totes and something called a Lululemon ABC pant* (aka a 5-pocket jean designed for all-day comfort). With fewer in-person meetings, it’s more acceptable to swap out stiff suits for a smart chino and knitted polo. (more…)



Retail reset: is Nike’s House of Innovation the answer?



Vogue Paris Nike by Geordie Wood

While it’s doom and gloom in the world of retail (Selfridges is letting 450 staff go), I can’t help believing that there’s still life in the physical retail model. And now is the perfect time for some fresh thinking.

Nike has just built its new Paris flagship, a ‘House of Innovation’ (below) serving as a temple for its most loyal worshippers. As it moves away from the wholesale model to focus on selling directly to these loyalists from its own stores, its goal is to focus on full price products that die-hards don’t mind paying for. (more…)