nineties

Twenty years later: the Hermes tan trainer



Hermes aw98 trainers Vogue Runway

Ten years ago I would have been all over the Sacai x Nike trainer collab (a kind of double-everything monster trainer with a retro vibe). Today? Not so much. I’m well over super-statement trainers and prefer a Nike Air Max shape or a utilitarian gym shoe like a Converse Jack Purcell. (Currently seeking a JP in white – why so elusive, Converse?)

However, I’m feeling the return of the luxe tan trainer, an understated gender-neutral number that kicks the post-ironic, hypebeast trainer roundly in the butt. Do you remember when Hermès did its first trainer? It was in 1998 and part of Martin Margiela’s first collection for the house. A rich conker brown affair, Hermès was the first luxury brand to design a trainer made entirely of leather and thus the ‘Quick’ caused quite the stir. (more…)

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First impressions: Riccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19



Burberry ss19 by Jamie Stoker for Vogue International

First impressions of Ricccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19 aka New Burberry? I thought he was very smart to open on those super grown up, chic, gentlewomanly pieces. Gorgeous honey-coloured trench coats with silky pleat skirts and scarf-style blouses, worn with elegant leather waist bags and stilettos. So not what we expected!

I noted that the younger models struggled on those pin heels (well they have been wearing Nikes for the last five years) but the supermodels (Stella, Natalia, Mariacarla et al) walked with grace and purpose. There was a little bit of Burberry check, but executed in a nuanced, respectful way, rather than the brash check of last season. (more…)

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Short hair muse: Jenny Brunt



Jenny Brunt for Gap photographed by Patrick Demarchelier

Jenny Brunt always had the best short hair and going by her Instagram, she still has.

My friend Magazine Fan alerted me to Iconic Focus (what a great name), the model agency that now represents one of my favourite 90s models and others of a similar life stage. This Gap shot (above) was always a favourite. And here she is now… (more…)

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Weekender uncensored



Weekender by Flowered Up music video directed by WIZ

I had such a nice chat with video director W.I.Z a couple of days ago, who called me following this recent i-D piece I contributed to. The piece is part of a series of interviews with fashion bods on their favourite pop videos. I agonised for ages over it because, well, don’t we all have dozens of favourites? In the end, I went for ‘Weekender’, an 18 minute long mini-film from 1992, that W.I.Z directed for the band Flowered Up. You can read all about it in the link, but I very much enjoyed researching the band because frankly, I couldn’t remember much from 1992. (more…)

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