ss19

Jil Sander SS19 – seen but not heard



Jil Sander SS19

Vogue reports that Jil Sander SS19 took its trouser suit cues from the military, the artist’s studio and sports uniforms. I think there’s still plenty of mileage in the boxy, Celine-esque silhouette that’s dominated this decade. Women really seem to like its comfort factor and it aligns with the gender fluid movement perfectly. The Vogue review ends with a caveat that designers Luke and Lucie Meier (now in their third season at Jil Sander) still have some way to go to revive the label.

I think this is a PR thing. (more…)



First impressions: Riccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19



Burberry ss19 by Jamie Stoker for Vogue International

First impressions of Ricccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19 aka New Burberry? I thought he was very smart to open on those super grown up, chic, gentlewomanly pieces. Gorgeous honey-coloured trench coats with silky pleat skirts and scarf-style blouses, worn with elegant leather waist bags and stilettos. So not what we expected!

I noted that the younger models struggled on those pin heels (well they have been wearing Nikes for the last five years) but the supermodels (Stella, Natalia, Mariacarla et al) walked with grace and purpose. There was a little bit of Burberry check, but executed in a nuanced, respectful way, rather than the brash check of last season. (more…)



NYFW: visions of blackness at Pyer Moss SS19



Pyer Moss ss19 Landon Nordeman for The New York Times


Pyer Moss
isn’t a household name but Robin Givhans’ Washington Post write-up spells out all the reasons why it’s the standout show of NYFW so far. Designer Kerby Jean-Raymond coralled a number of messages into one important and fantastic collection that I predict will be snapped up by buyers and collectors instantly.

As Givhans describes, Jean-Raymond expressed his vision of American blackness, not as ‘other’, but in the everyday sense of black culture. (more…)



Positive fashion: Selected People



sustainable fashion by Selected People SS19

I spotted this on WWD. Selected People is a new higher price offering from Denmark-based fast fashion brand Bestseller. Its point of difference is an aim to be as sustainable as possible, using organic and recycled cottons, wools, poplins as well as Modal and Lyocell. (more…)