Happy news for fans of Marni’s famous Milanese quirk. The Castiglioni family are back with a new brand – Plan C, encompassing ready-to-wear and some great accessories. I particularly like these chunky Geta-esque shoes and the whimsical illustrated bags. Did somebody say street-style bait? (more…)
Vogue reports that Jil Sander SS19 took its trouser suit cues from the military, the artist’s studio and sports uniforms. I think there’s still plenty of mileage in the boxy, Celine-esque silhouette that’s dominated this decade. Women really seem to like its comfort factor and it aligns with the gender fluid movement perfectly. The Vogue review ends with a caveat that designers Luke and Lucie Meier (now in their third season at Jil Sander) still have some way to go to revive the label.
First impressions of Ricccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19 aka New Burberry? I thought he was very smart to open on those super grown up, chic, gentlewomanly pieces. Gorgeous honey-coloured trench coats with silky pleat skirts and scarf-style blouses, worn with elegant leather waist bags and stilettos. So not what we expected!
I noted that the younger models struggled on those pin heels (well they have been wearing Nikes for the last five years) but the supermodels (Stella, Natalia, Mariacarla et al) walked with grace and purpose. There was a little bit of Burberry check, but executed in a nuanced, respectful way, rather than the brash check of last season. (more…)
Pyer Moss isn’t a household name but Robin Givhans’ Washington Post write-up spells out all the reasons why it’s the standout show of NYFW so far. Designer Kerby Jean-Raymond coralled a number of messages into one important and fantastic collection that I predict will be snapped up by buyers and collectors instantly.
As Givhans describes, Jean-Raymond expressed his vision of American blackness, not as ‘other’, but in the everyday sense of black culture. (more…)