hype commerce

Gabriela Hearst at Net-a-Porter – hype commerce for the chic set



Gabriela Hearst Patsy bag Tamu McPherson

Net-a-Porter is embracing hype commerce with gusto, and I’m conflicted!

These short-term ‘online pop-ups’ are a way to get people shopping instantly (deliberate and be prepared to kick yourself later), a kind of fast fashion for the luxury brigade. I’m generally against that mindless consumption behaviour, but hear me out!

Net-a-Porter’s latest pop-up is from Gabriela Hearst, whose tailoring is widely coveted by the kind of cool executive women who also love The Row, Celine Phoebe Philo and Hermes. But this is all about her bags. (more…)



First impressions: Riccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19



Burberry ss19 by Jamie Stoker for Vogue International

First impressions of Ricccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19 aka New Burberry? I thought he was very smart to open on those super grown up, chic, gentlewomanly pieces. Gorgeous honey-coloured trench coats with silky pleat skirts and scarf-style blouses, worn with elegant leather waist bags and stilettos. So not what we expected!

I noted that the younger models struggled on those pin heels (well they have been wearing Nikes for the last five years) but the supermodels (Stella, Natalia, Mariacarla et al) walked with grace and purpose. There was a little bit of Burberry check, but executed in a nuanced, respectful way, rather than the brash check of last season. (more…)



London Fashion Week for the people



Anya Hindmarch London Fashion Week

Fashion Week for press and VIPs really does seem to be a thing of the past these days. The best shows always seem to have an element of public spectacle – whether that’s Virgil Abloh’s debut as Louis Vuitton’s menswear creative director (for which he invited hundreds of fashion students to watch) or Martine Rose’s Camden street show, which was literally staged in a residential street, with all the neighbours watching.

This week’s London Fashion Week SS19 shows coincide with the London Design Festival, which means retailers have the spotlight on both fashion and interior design. (more…)



Culture and community – how skate brands win at retail



Oktyabr multibrand skate shop in Moscow conceived by upstart brand Rassvet - Pic by Hypebeast

The skatewear industry is one of the few niches managing to circumnavigate the plummeting shifting bricks and mortar retail landscape. Last weekend I went to Soho’s Brewer Street to witness the annual pop-up tour from Basement Approved, an online streetwear community that has evolved into a 360 proposition of physical merch, parties and pop-ups. Outside the appointed retail unit, a small gathering of scruffy-beautiful skate kids milled about guzzling Red Stripe and doing whatever young people do on their phones these days. (more…)