Is it me manifesting the 1924-style optimism of the deco-era or is there really a rising tide of flapper-esque dresses and hip-riding silhouettes on the horizon? Putting aside my theory that the 2020s hasn’t properly started yet and that 2024 could be The Year (admittedly based on nothing more than blind hope), the evidence is pointing to the latter. (more…)
“Some people disparage us looking back; they call it nostalgia. But from my point of view, it is ever necessary to remember and never forget authentic excitement and creative energy, especially in times of political crisis and despair. Today, in yet another moment of political crisis and despair, it is good to remember that challenging the status quo is possible and people can make their voices heard. And although at the time such insurgency is often dismissed, contrary to what the establishment would wish, positive creativity counts. It does make a mark. It matters and it changes society.”
Artist and activist, Caroline Coon (more…)
AW23 is emphatically female-focussed, kicking off with supermodel mania – that Vogue cover, the Apple series and a Linda Evangelista book – and continuing with a slew of women-championing exhibitions. We’ve also got the big Phoebe Philo reveal to come, as well as a focus on revivalist classic fashion (aka gentlewoman style). For this you can easily shop your closet, or consider buying pre-loved – the quality may be better and so may the price. “The connection between instability in the economy and consumers’ desire for classic, quality pieces that retain value is certainly at play, as is the cultural zeitgeist,” Kelly McSweeney, senior merchandising manager at The RealReal, told WWD. (more…)
It’s 30 years since Marc Jacobs’ fateful Perry Ellis grunge collection, so a good time for one revival in particular. This autumn I’m excited for the return of the kilt, the old money staple that straddles childhood nostalgia and tradition (think school uniforms and the Queen off-duty) and pop culture subversion (70s punk, 90s grunge, Cher from Clueless).
This season, Burberry has cleverly revived it as a youthful house code in an effort to ramp up Daniel Lee’s modern Brit vision. (more…)
