23 January, 2019

Menswear aw19 trend report

Prada AW19 menswear

Quite often the menswear shows give a peek into what the womenswear shows will look like. Even more so if you like your womenswear on the non froufrou side. So here’s a primer to myself on the menswear AW19 highlights so far. Valentino, Prada, and Jil Sander had the best knits, Vetements, the most interesting concept, and Dior and Raf Simons the best accessories.

Vetements was really interesting to me. A commentary on the dark web, the hoodie-balaclava hybrids were creepy but also symbolic of people wanting to withdraw into themselves. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 4 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News, Trends artists, AW19, Berluti, Celine, collabs, Craig Green, designers, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Futura 2000, Hedi Slimane, Hermes, Jil Sander, Kim Jones, Louis Vuitton, menswear, Moncler, Prada, Raf Simons, Raymond Pettibon, trends, Valentino, Vetements

21 January, 2019

The Margiela AIDS tee

Margiela AIDS tee

“[Sontag’s 1989 book] ‘AIDS and Its Metaphors’ was such an important work. It shoved us along in our grudging recognition and understanding of H.I.V. and the isolation it brings. It is numbing how that virus has tricked, mutated and infiltrated. We always feared it would become a pandemic, yet who in 1987 could have predicted the desolation and devastation it would reap in Africa?” Martin Margiela, T Magazine, 2005

It’s 25 years since Martin Margiela designed his cult AIDS T-shirt, a crudely stencilled screen printed tee with an important message. “There is more action to be done to fight AIDS than wear this T-shirt but it’s a good start”, is a classic example of the power of fashion in social commentary. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Designers, News, Shopping books, Maison Martin Margiela, Martin Margiela, shopping, T-shirts

15 January, 2019

Twenty years later: the Hermes tan trainer

Hermes aw98 trainers Vogue Runway

Ten years ago I would have been all over the Sacai x Nike trainer collab (a kind of double-everything monster trainer with a retro vibe). Today? Not so much. I’m well over super-statement trainers and prefer a Nike Air Max shape or a utilitarian gym shoe like a Converse Jack Purcell. (Currently seeking a JP in white – why so elusive, Converse?)

However, I’m feeling the return of the luxe tan trainer, an understated gender-neutral number that kicks the post-ironic, hypebeast trainer roundly in the butt. Do you remember when Hermès did its first trainer? It was in 1998 and part of Martin Margiela’s first collection for the house. A rich conker brown affair, Hermès was the first luxury brand to design a trainer made entirely of leather and thus the ‘Quick’ caused quite the stir. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 4 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Menswear, News, Trends Hermes, Martin Margiela, menswear, Nike, nineties, Sacai, trainers, trends

14 January, 2019

What’s the deal with high street fragrances emulating niche perfumery?

I’ve just done a KonMari fragrance sweep and given a load of hardly-used perfumes to my sister and her friends. Her favourite? An Urban Outfitters eau de parfum called Citron Glacé. I feel her joy; I’ve also kept my Urban Outfitters Macaron Rosé, a light burnt caramel gourmand that was a steal at £15 for 30ml. (I think they might be out of stock or discontinued).

Last week, Jane at British Beauty Blogger posted some pictures of a new high street fragrance line (above) with very chic packaging reminiscent of last year’s Chanel Les Eaux de Chanel bottles. We had to guess the brand and I was thinking along the lines of & Other Stories. (more…)