The Margiela AIDS tee
“[Sontag’s 1989 book] ‘AIDS and Its Metaphors’ was such an important work. It shoved us along in our grudging recognition and understanding of H.I.V. and the isolation it brings. It is numbing how that virus has tricked, mutated and infiltrated. We always feared it would become a pandemic, yet who in 1987 could have predicted the desolation and devastation it would reap in Africa?” Martin Margiela, T Magazine, 2005
It’s 25 years since Martin Margiela designed his cult AIDS T-shirt, a crudely stencilled screen printed tee with an important message. “There is more action to be done to fight AIDS than wear this T-shirt but it’s a good start”, is a classic example of the power of fashion in social commentary. The T-shirt has sold solidly since 1994, raising thousands for French AIDS charity, AIDES.
This season, to commemorate the anniversary, the phrasing reappears on several pieces from the MM6 SS19 collection, including shopping bags, boots and clothing. And the classic tee, of course.
This is one of my own Margiela tees (top), which featured in the 2013 book, Slogan T-Shirts: Cult and Culture. Buy the Margiela AIDS tee here and the book here.
WORDS AND IMAGE: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
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