Prada

The culture of fashion: the 90s heritage obsession continues



Raf Simons Fantastic Man cover

More on the 90s vintage story I wrote about in June.

Friday saw 26 pieces of vintage collectables land at Dover Street Market New York from the archive of stylist David Casavant. Curating pieces from the last 20 years by designers including Prada, Helmut Lang, and Raf Simons, highlights include a Raf Simons AW00 bomber jacket (example below) loaned to Rihanna for an event, a piece that Casavant acquired after seeing it on the cover of Fantastic Man (above). (more…)



The culture of fashion: The 90s is officially vintage – here’s why that’s a good thing



Jil Sander 1990s

It recently dawned on me that the 1990s, the era that defined me, is properly vintage. While it’s a discombobulating thought (I mean, I don’t feel middle-aged), there are some positives. One is that the minimalist-slash-deconstructivist designers of the time – Margiela, Lang, Demeulemeester, Sander, Prada, Klein – have become established as classics and thus there’s a new market for them. (more…)



Wild combinations at Prada AW22



Prada AW22 by Alessandro Lucioni Vogue

How fabulous are Raf and Miuccia together?

I love all the greatest Miuccia hits in the Prada AW22 collection (wacky feather trims, ugly geometrics, voluminous skirts and Mary Jane heels) but juxtaposed with Raf-isms (appliquéd MA1s, big coats, knitwear with a sliver of stretchy white turtle neck attached).

The power punch here is the combo of serious overcoats with sheer panelled evening skirts, something everyone can take ideas from styling-wise and the high street is going to go mad over. I also loved those boxy blazers (I’m on the hunt for a new blazer) and the double bags. Pure influencer-bait, although not too practical. Unless, unless they are literally two bags in one that can be detached and used individually, in which case – too effing genius… (more…)



SS22 trend report: Bodycon, but make it body positive



Acielle street style SS22

To get a real sense of next season trends, I like to look at Acielle’s (Aka Style Du Monde) Fashion Month street style photography. Not so much the super-peacock types, but the ones wearing denim with interesting tops and choice accessories. That’s the best way to see a more ‘everyperson’ way of wearing fashion.

My big takeaway for SS22 is the almost universal appetite for barely-there, bodycon and cutaway clothing. It was first evident to me at Collina Strada and Eckhaus Latta at New York Fashion Week. What was interesting about those designers’ treatments was the body positivity expression. Eckhaus Latta especially took a 1990s influence and added a decidedly inclusive 2020s interpretation (below). (more…)