In the absence of a ticket, I watched Simone Bellotti’s debut SS26 show on YouTube. As one of 13 key designer debuts this season, it’s one of the first shows that will be discussed big. Coming from a very critically successful few seasons at Bally, Bellotti has engineered a lot of good feeling from the press.
I loved this debut. It felt stripped back to the spare linear silhouettes of OG Jil Sander, with a pure colour palette that nodded to Raf-era. Within that I particularly liked the cold eroticism of Lucio Fontana-esque cutaway slashes in the skirts and cut-out back details, unexpected pops of silver, some great bags and the flat shoes. (more…)
It might be my age and the time of year (nesting is calling!) but I’m a bit more excited for fashion’s lifestyle news than adding more clothes to my wardrobe. (Yes, really!)
This week sees the newly refurbed JW Anderson store in Brewer Street, overflowing beautifully merchandised with Jonathan Anderson’s mix of knitwear, loafer bags, Wedgwood Jasperware and Mackintosh oak stools. Later in the year we’ll see his vision for a new store in Pimlico Road (home of spendy antique shops and World of Interior-style stores). (more…)
Congratulations to Soshi Otsuki, who just won the LVMH Prize.
Since launching as a menswear brand, Soshiotsuki, in 2015, his “distorted elegance” (also the name of his AW25 collection) in the tradition of Armani, Cerruti and even Studio Nicholson, now includes a number of women’s pieces.
To be specific, that means taking western men’s tailoring and filtering it through a Japanese lens – cardigan-soft fabrics, gentle gathering and draping, voluminous tailored trousers, enveloping knits – and juxtaposing them through careful styling. (more…)
A few snippets of digital ephemera and IRL recommendations I’ve enjoyed lately…
1/ Everybody’s sad about GIORGIO ARMANI’s passing – R.I.P – and quite rightly so. I enjoyed writingthis piece a couple of years ago and especially re-watching Martin Scorsese’s short film on him, Made In Milan (below).
2/ I’m very late to the MATERIALISTS party but was instantly enamoured with Lucy’s Paris Texas boots in the opening scene. Could this autumn see the return of small skirts, tall boots and black Wolford opaques? Buy the boots here* (and get the rest of the wardrobe intel here).
4/ TONNE GOODMAN talks. If you’re a 90s nostalgist, don’t miss this excellent podcast from earlier in the year with Tonne Goodman and Paul Cavaco. (Have tissues on standby for the ending!)
5/ This summer I learnt a new haberdashery term and can’t believe I never knew about ‘cabbage’, aka “the practice of making extra garments from offcuts or leftover fabric from cutting an item”. Obviously, from now on I’m pronouncing it ‘cabbahgge’, in the style of a 1980s New York ballroom queen.
7/ HERBERT LEVINE (the revived shoe brand helmed by former The Row designer Trevor Houston) has just dropped in 12 stockists including Harrods, Saks 5th Avenue and Mytheresa*. Vogue Business has a fascinating profile and this old Coveteur piece is great too. The shoes promise to be playful and practical. I like the look of this boot (below).
8/ P.S: We’ve been saying STEVE BUSCEMI’s name wrong. It’s Boo-SEM-ee, says the NYT (gift link).
WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla IMAGES: Herbert Levine by Mark Borthwick; Made In Italy/Disneyrollergirl; Peter Hujar’s Day; Herbert Levine by Mark Borthwick NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here
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