A coffee vs commerce conundrum



Jannel Therese Blank Street

“Six pounds for a cup of tea and you don’t even get a china cup!” This complaint was quoted to me some 30 years ago by my friend G; his mum aghast at the price of a cuppa in some National Trust cafe or other. Yet it’s a refrain that auto-plays all too frequently in my head when I pass any number of overpriced chain coffee outlets. Especially in the last two years when the premiumisation of, well, everything has played out in the world’s fashionable metros.

At WatchHouse (below), a new-ish UK coffee chain, you do get a lovely ceramic cup. The chain is notable for its upscale Aesop-esque branding (its design team is headed by a former Aesop designer), superior snacks, well-mannered baristas and several-steps-up-from-Starbucks hospitality area. It’s the go-to pit-stop for the entrepreneurial generation. WatchHouse sells a good range of coffee produced from its own roastery. A cappuccino costs £3.60 and it’s a cashless business. Yes, plenty of businesses are cashless these days (it’s not illegal in the UK), but its non-inclusiveness irks me. I can’t help feeling that coffee compared to, say, a Gucci dress, should be accessible to all.

Watch House Coffee
Watchhouse Coffee Hanover Square
Watchhouse Hanover

While millennial side hustlers and flexi-workers graduate from Starbs to WatchHouse for their pitch meetings, Gen Z has its own new destination coffee spot. Blank Street Coffee, an American tech-bro funded chain that began as a coffee cart is infiltrating the UK, with two dozen outlets planned for London. Its USP? Tech-powered coffee machines that allow staff to focus on “customer service and hospitality”. Its compact pistachio green micro-cafes are located around subways and tube stations, aimed at on-the-go commuters and nano-influencers rather than laptop lingerers.

It’s a good example of a new wave of coffee culture, borne of Gen Z’s syrup-laced iced drinks that are more about the #vibes and #aesthetic than coffee itself. Its merch line and recent collab with TikTok royalty Emma Chamberlain are perfectly suited to the kind of person for whom coffee-drinking is their entire personality.

Blank Street coffee cart
Blank Street Mai Castro
Blank Street Coffee in London - coffee shop counter with pastries

At £2.90 for a takeaway cappuccino, Blank Street is pitched as affordable (for when you just want ‘good enough’ coffee to go). Yet in reality there are mere pennies difference between them and their London chain neighbours. In comparison, the legendary Monmouth Coffee Company cappuccino costs £3.10 and my local indies also charge around £3. Where WatchHouse coffee is actually good – but pricy – Blank Street is unapologetically style over substance. Blank Street has also attracted criticism for its aggressive expansion, often opening opposite (and eventually forcing out) neighbourhood independents and authentic mom-and-pop joints.

But so what? Why should anyone care? Business is business, right?

Well, I care because normalising this mediocre-quality-high-aesthetic approach in which coffee is a mere fashion accessory sets the bar for copycats to come along and charge similarly elevated prices for sub-par product (Blank Street Coffee is essentially a fancy vending machine). Add in the merch line and community marketing and your coffee-as-lifestyle-brand is complete. Indeed, WatchHouse courts its customers as not only members of its community but as crowdfunding investors, seemingly via the email sign-up for its free wi-fi. It’s pretty savvy I must admit. If you’re a fan of your daily caffeine dealer, it’s quite the flex to play investor bro and potentially reap rewards while showing your support.

However, the romantic idealist in me can’t help finding it all somewhat cynical. I mean, compare it with this genuine coffee-and-community story I read on Instagram recently. The fabulous Gene Krell spotted a lone coffee truck in remote Japanese countryside and was compelled to talk to the owner. He discovered Jin-Pei Arakawa, a senior widowed gentleman who was passionate about coffee. “He felt the ideal way to conquer his solitude was to build a coffee wagon and travel the countryside. Making friends, talking to people and above all hearing their stories, it was as though they were extended family. And when he sees them enjoy his coffee, he feels it has given them something to remember.” The whole story is ridiculously wholesome and needless to say, Mr Arakawa’s coffee was really good.

Anyway, my disaster scenario may yet come to pass. According to WWD, the cost-of-living crisis and rising inflation mean 53% of millennials and Gen Z will spend less on non-essentials in the near future. That may mean the end of £4 pistachio lattes and iced chocolate orange mochas. And perhaps a return to decent, but accessible coffee as part of our everyday ritual and not a luxury flex.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Jannel Therese; WatchHouse Coffe x 3; Ballupbrian; Mai Castro; Blank Street Coffee
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Shop the post: The low-down on party shoes



Julia Nobis by Zoe Ghertner for M Le Monde

Question: do people go for a fully glitzed-up party look these days? Or do they go for more comfort-led with a nod to shine and bedazzle? I’ve seen a lot of extreme glam-rock platform heels* doing the rounds on all the shopping sites, not to mention the Bottega Veneta Mostra heels*. But equally, I’ve noticed that in real life, the gorgeous young things are wearing the opposite. Like, a satin slip with 70s-style Adidas Gazelles (that is, the amped-up 2020s version at 2020s prices – thanks Gucci*).

Somewhere in-between is a middle ground where the New York minimalistas are pitched. In their recent collections, Khaite (below), Toteme and The Row (below) have seemingly agreed on 90s-adjacent party looks – think oversized black tailoring, metallic leathers and monochrome midi dresses accompanied by walkable, stiletto-free footwear.

Khaite AW22
The Row pre-fall 2023

Flat Mary-Janes are a favourite, worn with either black opaque tights or a black ankle sock. The jewel colour velvet Mary Janes by Le Monde Beryl* add a little festive flair. To accompany gamine, sculptural black dresses, I like these retro-futuristic silver slingbacks from Armani*. They’re reminiscent of Helmut Lang at his best and would look equally good with straight, ankle-length trousers. This short heel can look twee if the rest of the shoe is too demure so I appreciate all the sharp angles. I’m also feeling quite smug having rediscovered my spike-toed Martine Sitbon ankle straps (circa 1998), with micro studs decorating the mini cone heels.

A slim-fitted ankle boot teamed with a fluid midi-dress is another winning look (below) – 3-5cm is ideal. And if, like me, you like an optic white boyfriend jean or ivory suit trouser, then a little black ankle boot* is perfectly acceptable evening attire, especially in a lustrous finish like suede, moiré silk or patent-leather.

Giedre Dukauskaite by Ward Ivan Rafik

Accessory-wise, my rule is the simpler the clothes (in cut, colour, detail), the louder I go with shoes, bag, make-up or jewellery (but not all at once!). I’m very much a starched trouser and XL silk shirt kinda gal, which pair nicely with heavily decorated low-heeled slingbacks such as these Giambattista Vallis*. If you’re wearing a blazer and cami, then a sculptural brooch or a man’s silk scarf* can be nicer than loads of necklaces. But I also love ornate ‘secret’ watches like my Hermès Medor or the Bulgari Serpenti – a feat of watch engineering that’s a real conversation starter. And it may surprise you to know I’ve always wanted a Judith Leiber minaudiere (pure bonkers) but would settle for a Schiaparelli.

Julia Nobis by Zoe Ghertner for M Le Monde

NOW CLICK BELOW TO SHOP THE POST (I MAY EARN A COMMISSION ON THE BASKET VALUE OF ITEMS BOUGHT*)…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: Julia Nobis by Zoe Ghertner for M Le Monde; Khaite; The Row pre-fall 2023; Giedre Dukauskaite by Ward Ivan Rafik; Julia Nobis by Zoe Ghertner for M Le Monde
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Raf Simons is quitting his label



Raf Simons

Oof, I wasn’t expecting that. With a lone post on his IG, Raf Simons announced that after 27 years, he’s quitting his own label.

Say it ain’t so!

No concrete explanation has been given and responses have been varied, from “finally – because no one was buying it” to an outpouring of crying emojis (mine).

Of course, he’s continuing as co-creative director of Prada, which has led to some speculation that Raf is being groomed as Miuccia’s successor should she decide to retire. Others suggested maybe there’s a ‘second act’ to come. After all, his note ends on, “Forward always”.

I thought the point that he is bowing out while on a high was a good one, rather than selling his brand on to eventually be diluted, a la Helmut Lang. In any case, it bodes well for collectors of his work. If you own any of his cult pieces, keep them safe.

Raf Simons parting message Instagram

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: Raf Simons; Instagram
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Maureen Doherty, a good egg



Maureen Doherty Egg

“I’m not trying to make anything new. There’s so much pressure in fashion to every six months have this newness. When I opened Egg, I wanted it to be like a chair: well that’s OK for 10 years. It’s not for six months; it’s 10 years. I like the fact that it can be an heirloom.”
Egg founder, Maureen Doherty, Hole & Corner

Sad to hear of the sudden passing of Maureen Doherty, whose quiet brand Egg was a highlight of any Dover Street Market visit, or the occasional stroll to her store in Kinnerton Street. This interview from Hole & Corner is a delight.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: Maureen Doherty by Matthew Donaldson for Hole & Corner
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book, The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman
CLICK HERE to buy my beauty book, Face Values: The New Beauty Rituals and Skincare