The wrong shoe



Gucci SS24 show

What’s the deal with fugly shoes? I thought they were a post-ironic anomaly, but no, the aesthetically displeasing Uggs, Crocs and Bottega-style Puddle boots are clearly sticking around.

Back in the day, a Margiela Tabi boot was seriously avant-garde and the perfect foil to your minimalist Lang/Demeulemeester/Sander little black suit. Now it’s a whole sub-franchise netting hefty sales for loyal retailers.

The #NewGucci SS24 show led by Sabato De Sarno garnered mixed reactions – some saying it was too minimalist or too derivative of past designers. My main gripe however was the shoes – horrendous clumpy flatform loafers killing the vibe of the otherwise sleek luxury patent leather pencil skirts and cashmere sweaters (below). But now I realise, that was the whole point.

Gucci ss24 flatform loafers
Gucci ss24 flatform loafers

Allison Bornstein’s book, Wear It Well comes out soon and one of her styling philosophies is ‘the wrong shoe’, The idea that by wearing an off kilter or inappropriate shoe with your outfit, you “push your look into a more interesting place”.  So leaving aside that the models were clearly struggling to walk in those stacked Guccis, there’s something to be said for adding an ugly detail to your discreet luxury fit. And let’s not forget, that Gucci has been here (many times) before. The Tom Ford clog*, the Alessandro furry mule* (below) …

Gucci furry loafers mules 2015

Ugh, why mules though? They’re my biggest footwear bugbear, drawing attention to bulbous, parmesan-skinned heels and impossible to run in. Is that the point? Prada’s SS24 collection was also big on mules; satin triangle-heeled ones in electric pink (below) and chartreuse. However, I do sheepishly confess to an – unworn – pair of 1990s Prada lip-print mules under the bed in my ‘archive’ (below). And I did rather warm to the audaciousness of the Alessandro Michele-era Gucci furry mule and those early gender-nonconformist collections.

Prada mules SS24
Prada lip print mules Y2K

Anyway, as I said in my AW23 trend report, if quiet luxury is to last more than a season, we’ll need some ways to fuck it up so to speak (i.e., make it look interesting, not basic) and good news for luxury megabrands – quirky accessories are just the way to do that. So, whether I like it or not, I’m bracing myself for the onslaught of wrong shoes, bad flatforms and unwalkable mules.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES:  Gucci x 4; Prada; Prada/Disneyrollergirl
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Prada SS24 – opposites attract



Prada SS24 womenswear

Prada SS24 was a fabulous hybrid of utility toughness and romantic flou. And I’m very much here for it. The same iridescent gloop we saw for the menswear show oozed from the ceiling giving us a kind of syrupy veil to look through.

I always love Prada’s show styling. Here, I liked the oversized Barbour-eque jackets and see-through skirts, and the tucked-in trouser suits with supersized sleeves and unbuttoned flappy cuffs. This look was especially sharp in the shorts suit paired with chiselled Derbys and ankle socks, although I fear it will be annoyingly omnipresent on the nepo-model set – Hayley, Kendall – sigh.

My favourite look of all was the ‘Haze’ dress in superfine organza and gazar with wafty ‘wings’ trailing behind, accessorised with a ballerina hairband. (Yes, you can totally repurpose your opaque tights like we did in 1994.) Was it a bit reminiscent of OG Helmut Lang? Oh just a tad, but honestly, these days what isn’t? Anyway, a ton of styling ideas to steal – from proportion-mixing to accessories to colour combinations to make-up.

Prada SS24 womenswear

Prada SS24 womenswear make-up

Prada SS24 womenswear


Prada SS24 womenswear

Prada SS24 womenswear logo mules

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Prada SS24
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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40 years of Joseph and their famous handknit sweaters



Joseph handknit sweater and 1980s ad campaign

1983 was a monumental year for fashion. Why? So many reasons but in particular, it was the launch of Joseph*. A key influence on 80s and 90s fashion, Joseph Ettedgui was a knitwear and retail innovator whose fabulous contemporary stores, buying nous and ad campaigns were both timeless and of the moment.

To celebrate its 40th anniversary, Joseph will launch a capsule collection re-imagining the Joseph Tricot Originals from the 80s. The cashmere-wool knitted six-piece limited edition capsule (below) includes three jumpers, a trouser, bag and scarf.

Joseph limited edition capsule knitwear 40th anniversary

The Joseph handknits of the 80s (top and below) were a major ‘garconne style’ influence on me – massive playful sweaters that would be teamed with black tights or leggings and a short boyish crop (think Inès de la Fressange or Jeny Howorth), plus plenty of attitude. They really summed up the cool spirit of the 80s that was not about Dynasty-style shoulder pads or page-three-girl blonde bouffants. No surprise that the original knits are now still highly wearable and highly collectible.
Joseph handknit sweater and 1980s ad campaign

The Joseph capsule collection launches in October alongside a brand new Joseph Regent Street store. Stay tuned…

UPDATE: I’m living for the memories in the comments. keep ’em coming!

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Joseph
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Positive fashion: Curated reseller Marrkt just launched womenswear



Marrkt womenswear

Not sure if this is good or bad news. If you’re a selective shopper like me, then good news, I hope! Marrkt (I pronounce it ‘market’, Mr DRG insists on ‘marked’), the curated reseller platform that – until now – specialises in heritage-y menswear brands, has now added womenswear.

Its email blurb promises the likes of pre-loved APC, Comme des Garçons, Margaret Howell and Trickers, or as they put it, “classic, quirky, design- and quality-driven – less about the logo, more about the product.”

I know a lot of guys who use Marrkt to buy and sell their old Levi’s, Ralph Lauren etc, so I may have a lurk for re-ups of Levi’s Made & Crafted jeans, deadstock 90s Jack Purcells (hopeful much?) and the fantasy cord blazer I’m still hunting for.

Check it out here.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: Slowboy for Marrkt
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book, The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman
CLICK HERE to buy my beauty book, Face Values: The New Beauty Rituals and Skincare