Magazines

The culture of fashion: how the catwalk soundtrack got its groove



Michael Clark Bodymap fashion show - photograph by Robert Rosen courtesy BodyMap

Models! Clothes! Music! Fashion show soundtracks are increasingly part of shaping a brand’s identity. And in the digital era they’re about to become even more important…

The year was 2017. Kim Jones was menswear artistic director at Louis Vuitton. At the appointed hour, his first models sloped onto the Paris runway in iterations of slouchy 80s overcoats, baggy flannel trousers and Basquiat-style suits with untucked shirts. Then the kicker – internet-breaking Speedy holdalls emblazoned with red-and-white Supreme logos. And to add the crucial fourth musical dimension: Honey Dijon’s mix of Sound Factory bangers including Chez Damier’s Can You Feel It (MK Dub), completing the downtown New York nostalgia trip.

Since then, other notable catwalk soundtracks have included LaQuan Smith’s AW23 Ballroom fabulosity-fest; Benji B’s eerie David Lynch-like Chromatics mix for Jil Sander SS25 and Saint Laurent’s long-term music collaboration with DJ SebastiAn – so integral to the brand, they packaged it as a box set and sold it in Saint Laurent stores. (more…)



The Toscani effect



Benetton 1984

Farewell Oliviero Toscani, a brilliant photographer and art director who changed the world through his audacious activism dressed as fashion advertising.

I became aware of him in the 1980s via his vibrant fashion shoots for Benetton using groups of racially diverse, often street cast models in simple studio settings, styled in layers upon layers by (my old boss) Caroline Baker. (more…)



Shop the post: scarves, scarves and more f***ing scarves



Fantastic Man scarf

Scarves are underrated. We don’t big them up nearly enough. But Fantastic Man (above and below) has recognised this oversight and given a whole feature to the combined joy and pragmatism of this unsung wardrobe hero. (more…)



Gentlewoman style: Janicza Bravo



Janicza Bravo for FT Weekend By Cian Oba-Smith

I’ve been enjoying reading about director Janicza Bravo in The Gentlewoman and the FT.

After clocking her boyish style, I wasn’t surprised to learn she started out as a stylist and costume designer. With her trouser suits, caps, Derby shoes and cropped hair, she has a great, distinctive look (more…)