Sometimes you want theatrics and fanfare at a fashion show, other times, the simplest things can resonate. These sweatshirts at Calvin Klein Collection menswear AW14 are doing it for me…
Ive just finished writing 2000 words on the power of the stylist but frankly 2k wasn’t nearly enough to write about this ever-changing subject. Stylists and fashion editors are now becoming overall content curators as evidenced by initiatives like Anna Trevelyan and Simon Foxton’s stints as guest curators for SHOWstudio’s Tumblr and Nicola Formichetti’s hugely popular personal Tumblr.
Latest on this phenomenon is the news that Hanneli Mustaprta has been tapped as a contributing editor to Calvin Klein’s Tumblr. Not a stylist in the traditional sense, but a ‘self stylist’ with a creative eye, this is a fresh way for brands to work with those who share their visual point of view. I quite like this new strand of content curation for the attention-deficit generation. If anyone wants to hire me as their Tumblr editor* (
but pref not the naughty brand who picked my brains and then vanished without a trace) then let’s talk!
*PS: my beauty Tumblr is here
As Jen at Mahalo fashion bemoans, every drop of interest has been squeezed out of the ’70s so what’s next on the retro rehash front? I hate to say it but the fact cannot be ignored, it’s time for the nineties revival proper. It’s had a couple of false starts, the latest being nu-rave, but I think we can start looking at the 90s revival from a grown-up point of view. As Fashionista reports that 1990s finest alterna-models Kirsten Owen and Stella Tennant are rumoured to be the faces of Marc Jacobs’ fall campaign, I’m thinking the following will start looking fresh now:
Skinny black suit trousers and pointy black ankle boots -very Helmut Lang/Jil Sander, very Alison Mosshart
Spiky kitten heels – Remember when Dolce & Gabbana did these? I can totally see Vicky Beckham working a kitten heel and sheath dress combo
Non-trashy silver: Who can forget Jean Colonna’s silver jeans, silver leather jackets, silver-sprayed Cons?
McQueen’s ‘ugly’ aesthetic – think edgy tailoring, angry walks, intricate details, elaborate shows
Tom Ford for Gucci’s smoky eye and liquid jersey dresses with punky patent boots (wow, was that really 10 years ago?)
Isaac Mizrahi’s AW04 ballskirt and tee combo – legendary!
Joseph – when did it all go wrong with Joseph? I used to lust after those big black slouchy knits like a junior fashionista possessed, not to mention the boyish trouser suits, luxe hoodies and flat-front trousers with trademark stripe up the side
Patrick Cox loafers – I’m still regretting that I could never afford the gold ones. With news that Patrick Cox has been bought by Eddie Davenport, may I suggest they revive these pretty sharpish?
Camel: AW 94/95 = Camel suits at Calvin Klein (complete with chignons and 60s eyeliner), camel Crombie-style coats at Helmut Lang, camel dresses at MaxMara and Ann Demeulemeester (with aforementioned black ankleboots)
1990s models – Supermodels aside, who doesn’t miss the golden greats: Emma Balfour, Bridget Hall, Lorraine Pascale, Kiara, Veronica Webb, Kirsty Hume, Cecelia Chancellor …
1990s photographers: Ellen von Unwerth, David Sims, Juergen Teller, Corinne Day
CK Jeans: That iconic ad is imprinted on my brain!
Agnes B garconne look – admittedly I never stopped rocking this look but I reckon it’s time for it to resurface. Agnes B has been under-the-radar for most of this decade so let’s hear it for the stripy tee, Black picot-edge cardi and beatnik sunnies. PS, old Agnes is opening up shop in Spitalfields Market soon too.
Emma Balfour in iD
Juergen Teller for Katharine Hamnett Denim
iD cover with Lorraine Pascale
Milla Jovovich wears Alberto Biani in iD photographed by Bob Richardson