What a weird year! It feels odd talking about new-season trends, all things considered, but there is going to be a new season and even if you’re not buying, there are other ways to be inspired by newness. Let’s say it’s also a way of looking forward, so a sort of exercise in cautious optimism. Here’s what’s in the air for AW20… (more…)
It feels like every show season I’ve covered for the last God knows how many years has referenced some sort of uncertain dystopian future. Economic, political, ecological and now major health pandemic. I’m bored of writing about protective armour-like layers and ominous colour palettes. Bring me the light! The joy! A glimmer of hope! Or maybe just these primary coloured pops of minimalism by Hermès.
For Hermès AW20, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski took unexpected inspiration from her design hero, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. (more…)
Hedi Slimane gets a lot of hate, but generally I’m a fan. His latest Celine AW20 collection got criticised for its predictability – bourgeois rock ‘n’ roll again?! But you can’t deny, up close the pieces are immaculately cut and have that forever classicism that’s in keeping with today’s anti fast-fashion mood. (I’m not quite ready to embrace the fashion rental movement; I’m a keep-forever kinda girl.)
For Celine AW20 Hedi showed 112 exits (more…)
The one show that dominated my NYFW social feeds? The Row AW20. One wag described it as “the same collection I’ve been seeing for the last six seasons.” No matter; its predictable self-assured minimalism and quiet tailoring offer something of a sartorial salve in troubled times. And after all, anti-fashion is the new Fashion. (Or something.) Highlights were the floor-nuzzling trench coats, collarless boxy jackets and full-legged pants. Plus more rollnecks layered under unadulterated shirting (also trending this season, fyi). (more…)
