While many say that commercial ‘seasons’ are redundant, I still get new season vibes just before Fashion Week. I think it makes me focused on the newness out there, plus the days are getting longer and I just want to let the light in my life, dammit!
However, new season to me rarely means a total ‘in then out’ about turn from the previous season. That kind of thinking has become outmoded lately anyway, as desirability has become “decoupled from consumption and coupled with knowledge, a story, belonging, and transformative potential to make us better humans.” Instead, this new season edit is an excuse to fill any gaps with updates rather than total novelty. Here’s what’s on my radar for SS20…
1/ UNDONE TRENCH. Trench coats for spring? Clearly not ground-breaking, but I like the new relaxed, slouchy macs and trenches, designed less for harsh weather and more for wearing undone whilst sipping a matcha latte al fresco. The Row’s microfibre trench* has a soft, washed effect, while Arket’s candy pink trench (below) is like wearing an uplifting Instagram filter. I’m also digging the easy-breezy cuts of these coats (below) by Paul Smith and Auralee.
2/ ANTI-LEATHER BAGS. In the world of luxury, there’s been an eco and ethical backlash to leather, fur and exotic skins. PETA has completed its anti-fur campaign, considering its work there ‘done’ and is now doubling down on leather and wool. In response, Selfridges has banned exotic skins from its buy and there’s been a huge rise of people buying their classic leather bags on the resale market (e.g. Farfetch’s new pre-owned bag edit*). While luxury brands navigate this shift, I’ve noticed an uptick in canvas bags (albeit with leather trims). Not as hard-wearing as leather, obviously, and better suited to light summer use, I like these from Hunting Season* and Loewe*. This pre-loved Hermès Passe Passe 35 tote* is also great, as well as likely to hold its value if you decide to flip it for something else later. Or for the much more affordable option, I’ve just discovered these gems from Rue de Verneuil*.
3/ FEATHER CUTS. I’m thinking how to evolve my short hair and I’m liking some of the feathery cuts around. Ana Gimeno Brugada always nails this look, plus the Dries van Noten models are looking great as well. Screenshotted!!
4/ DB BLAZERS. Double-breasted blazers have been kicking around for a good while. Seen at Dior men for a few seasons, we’re getting our own scaled-down versions from Celine, Givenchy and Proenza Schouler (scaled up in their case). Or for the no-frills workaday option, check out Whistles*.
5/ XXXL HOODIE. If you’re planning to park the puffer for spring, but feel like you still need some sort of armour to battle the slings and arrows, then an oversized hoodie serves as a fitting piece of combat-wear. I like these graphic Burberry striped hoodies (below) and I’ve been living in my navy men’s Agnes b hoodie this winter (half price here). Personally I’m big a fan of the hoodie under blazer look, a la Linda V Wright. Italic, the factory-to-consumer brand that specialises in classics (I mentioned them in last spring’s trend round-up) have a classic black ‘Weekend Hoodie’ for $50 – remember to size up.
6/ LOWRIDER HEELS. Shoe-wise, I’ve been looking at mid-heels. I feel like we’ve reached peak trainer but I don’t relish the return of Tribute heels. So I quite like these walkable Almond pumps from Bottega Veneta* and the chunky-heeled sling backs from Gianvito Rossi* – a good match with an ankle-swinging straight leg jean*.
7/ GEL-TO-OIL CLEANSER. New beauty texture alert! I think this has come from Japan (please correct me if I’m wrong); it’s an unctuous, super-thick jelly texture cleanser that’s very satisfying for an end-of-day makeup remover cleanse. Glossier’s Milky Jelly cleanser is my current rave, and I’ve heard good things about Beauty Pie’s Japanfusion* gel-to-oil-to-milk cleanser. New to market is Ren’s Perfect Canvas Jelly cleanser, while Chanel’s Sublimage gel-to-oil cleanser* (£85, below) is on the fantasy cleanser list for when I win the lottery.
8/ UNADULTERATED SHIRT. A no-frills shirt is never a bad move. I like the starched look at the moment, especially a bit on the big side. Unbuttoned over a roll neck is another good look, nailed by The Row (below). Arket’s pink twill overshirt* and combats combo (below) is a good alternative to white. And I’d love to see a minimalist version of this Caroline Herrera stick-of-rock stripe (below).
9/ JUMBO CHAINS. To accompany the unadulterated shirt, I’m into the idea of a chunky chain or two. Sophie Buhai (below) remains the queen of minimalist chain-wear, while Bottega Veneta*, Stvdio* and Versace* (bottom) are also on my radar. Amp up your white pocket shirt with a Pomellato gold bracelet* and a maximalist Panthère de Cartier* cuff watch if you think you’re hard enough…
10/ LE BEAUTY OBJET. The Hermès lipstick line drops on March 4th and I’m as excited about the accompanying accessories as I am about the Pierre Hardy-designed clunk-click casing. To elevate the Hermès lipstick experience just that bit more, there are two leather lipstick cases, including this calf skin pop-up lipstick case in vibrant vermillion (below) and a sibling case with an integrated mirror. I think we’re going to see more of this upscale lipstick-as-luxury-beauty-accessory trend, now that no-one seems to balk at £40+ lipsticks. (Note: the Hermès lipsticks are refillable, so in theory you only pay the ‘full’ price once.) (Full disclosure: I’m still not over the Valentino lipstick minaudiere from 2017.)
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WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Arket x 2; Paul Smith; Auralee; Ana Gimeno Brugada; Dries van Noten; Celine, Givenchy, Proenza Schouler, Burberry; Chanel, The Row; Arket; Caroline Herrera; Sophie Buhai; Versace; Hermès beauty x 2
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here