It feels like every show season I’ve covered for the last God knows how many years has referenced some sort of uncertain dystopian future. Economic, political, ecological and now major health pandemic. I’m bored of writing about protective armour-like layers and ominous colour palettes. Bring me the light! The joy! A glimmer of hope! Or maybe just these primary coloured pops of minimalism by Hermès.
For Hermès AW20, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski took unexpected inspiration from her design hero, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. “He was such a big designer to me – a modernist in the ’80s. His work was very optimistic; there was something casual but sensual about it – very up,” she told Vogue. While the second half of the show had plenty of black, it was the first half of bright white and tan equestrian leatherwear, energised with primary-coloured silks (and some clever knits) that grabbed me.
The Bauhaus-style set design added to the playful mood, and the models boasted the vibrant reds and oranges of the new Rouge Hermès lipstick line, which launches tomorrow. Whose cases incidentally also resemble the Bauhaus-pop set design. What a happy coincidence!
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WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Hermès AW20 / Vogue Runway
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