Design

Oh, Dior! Kim Jones is leaving, is Maria G-C next?



Kim Jones Dior mens winter 2019-2020

It’s official. After weeks of speculation, it’s been confirmed that Kim Jones is leaving Dior menswear after seven years.

I’ve really liked most of what Kim has done at LVMH (apart from Fendi – sorry!) and have routinely posted his Dior menswear shows here as he’s been an early adopter of using traditionally ‘feminine’ tropes in his collections, like certain couture techniques, styling tricks (brooches!), not to mention repopularising the women’s 1990s saddlebag for men. (more…)

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The aspirational familiarity of Lemaire and Auralee AW25



Auralee AW25

While the major fashion brands have seemingly gone nuts with their pricing, it makes sense that a certain demographic has shifted attention to Lemaire and Auralee. Both just showed at the menswear shows – precise (and practical) layering, easy-but-interesting silhouettes, harmonious colour palettes and distinctive accessories. Lemaire’s outerwear is particularly desirable with their gently exaggerated shoulders and I love the dopamine hits of red and green at Auralee (reminding me of Bally SS24). (more…)

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Intimidated? You’re welcome



Sheila Rock Young Punks King's Road Jordan

An alternative thought to last Thursday’s post about the cosy conviviality of the Alaïa cafe-bookshop.

Reading Sheila Rock’s excellent 2020 photo book, Young Punks, her photo of the decidedly uninviting facade of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s 1976 SEX shop (above) revealed an audacious weirdness with intimidating appeal that lured people in out of sheer curiosity. (more…)

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On my radar: opera pumps



Roy Halston and Andre Leon Talley in opera pumps

This photo of Roy Halston and Andre Leon Talley (above) appeared on my Pinterest and got me thinking about opera pumps.

WTF are opera pumps? Quite simply a Regency-era formal men’s slipper previously adorned with a buckle, now with a flat grosgrain bow (below). The opera pump is traditionally worn with black tie, accompanied by black sheer silk socks (and sock suspenders!). The classic variety popularised by the Edwardians is made from black patent leather, although since the 1950s highly polished calfskin has also been an option. How is an opera pump different to a ballet pump? To me, it has a slightly slimmer profile, a more solid heel, is cut higher on the vamp and finished with a grosgrain bow. (more…)

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