Business of fashion

Elevated oral care: the Quip overnight toothbrush



Annemarieke van Drimmelen

Jonathan Margolis at How To Spend It is my tech critic of choice, and it turns out he’s also become its unofficial toothbrush critic. If he says this Quip toothbrush is good, then it must be. I usually use an Oral-B or ION-Sei electric toothbrush but don’t want to carry all that bulk if I’m travelling or doing an overnight stay. So then I usually take a bog standard toothbrush but feel it’s doing a substandard job. Quip solves this problem. It’s slender and fuss-free and works with a simple AAA battery to get the required power-brushing I like, without the chargers and plugs. Buy it here*. (more…)



Gentlewoman style: the return of Bouchra Jarrar



Bouchra Jarrar spring 2020 Couture Vogue Runway

“I am doing it alone, out of my house, with external collaborators and ateliers. And I am so happy. I had 25 years of working in a big house. I learned a lot. Maybe what I learned most now is I don’t have to function like that. I don’t have to speed up a collection just because an executive tells me to speed up. Now I can be very artisanal. This is the heart of my work, my world. I am putting all my savoir-faire on the line. ”

Another designer on the go-slow train, Bouchra Jarrar is returning to fashion, at her own decelerated pace. The couturier who went to Lanvin RTW for a hot minute is following in the footsteps of other designers like Thakoon Panichgul, producing a very trim collection of signature pieces. (more…)



Nicole McLaughlin and More or Less magazine



Nicole McLaughlin for More Or Less mag

I just picked up my copy of the much-feted Vogue Italia illustrated issue. The idea is that by having all the fashion editorials illustrated, rather than expensively shot on location, not only would Vogue Italia lighten its carbon footprint, but the money saved would be donated to help restore the Fondazione Querini Stampalia in Venice, recently damaged by the floods. While some considered this a cynical greenwashing gesture, I think every little helps. Plus I love fashion illustration (even more so, magazines without pesky coverlines!).

But for a more in-depth fashion magazine that’s spotlighting creative sustainability, look to More or Less magazine. (more…)



Retail round-up: Lunar New Year airport pop-ups are a data-capture gift to beauty retailers



Lancome Renovated Absolue Cushion

DFNI associate editor, ALISON FARRINGTON reports on the travel retail beauty opportunity for Chinese New Year

Chinese New Year is upon us and travel retailers across Asia have been creating special promotions designed to attract passengers for the biggest Chinese shopping opportunity of the year. Travel retail or duty free shoppers are big business. Often referred to as the ‘Sixth Continent’, in 2018 the global market was worth $79bn.

Beauty remains the biggest and fastest-growing product sector in travel retail, while Asia Pacific is the category’s main growth driver. In 2018 the region saw beauty sales grow 23.5% to a total of $31.5bn. Beauty and fashion accessories are the biggest pull for Chinese travellers eager to snap up seasonal limited editions at the airport. This year’s theme is Year of the Rat (sometimes interpreted as a mouse) and we’ve seen brands adopting characterful themes such as Rocket Rat and even Mickey Mouse. (more…)