6 January, 2020

The culture of fashion: Grace Wales Bonner grows up

Wales Bonner AW20 by Fashion Network

Wow, when did Wales Bonner get so slick, polished and commercial? I love it! The Wales Bonner AW20 mixed-gender show for London Fashion Week Mens was inspired by London’s 70s Lovers’ Rock scene. Specifically, the photos by John Goto of teenagers at Lewisham Youth Club, personally resonant for Grace Wales Bonner as her dad worked in the area back in the day.

I love the styling – sharp boxy blazers over shin-sweeping stripy tunics, shirts layered over polonecks and all the head gear and jewellery. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 2 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News, Photography, Trends Adidas, AW20, collabs, culture of fashion, John, London Fashion Week Men's, photography, Wales Bonner

5 January, 2020

The new direct-to-consumer classics

No-fashion fashion; it seems the world is catching up with the ‘gentlewoman style’ set (according to the New York Times), who covet the best version of a thing that they can wear forever. This was the premise of my book, The New Garconne, which came out in 2016. The wardrobe building blocks featured in there have held up pretty well, although silhouettes have morphed slightly over time. But classics are classics, so I think we will always need a blazer, a tailored pant, a slim-heeled shoe and a decent tote.

Interestingly, some of today’s best classics don’t come from the heritage brands but from ‘direct-to-consumer’ (aka DTC) start-ups. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 4 Comments Beauty, Brands, Business of fashion, Design, News, Online shopping, Retail concepts, Shopping, Trends Away, Business of Fashion, circularity, denim, direct to consumer, For Days, Homme Girls, La Bouche Rouge, Naadam, Paravel, RE/DONE, Veja

3 January, 2020

Gentlewoman style: French boy brows

Somehow I missed the news that Boy de Chanel*, the men’s make-up line had launched here in the summer. I knew it had launched in South Korea last year, but hadn’t clocked it in any London stores. But I spotted it in the St Pancras Station Chanel beauty boutique recently, so got a good close up look.

The collection is a small one, consisting of a tinted fluid in four shades, a matte lip balm and four shades of brow pencil. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 3 Comments Beauty, Business of fashion, News, Shopping, Trends beauty, business of beauty, Chanel, shopping, trends

28 December, 2019

On my radar: Amoako Boafo

Amoako Boafo Cobalt Blue Earring 2019 - Courtesy of Mariane Ibrahim

A name to look out for in the 2020s: Amoako Boafo. This Vienna-based Ghanaian painter came to my attention during Art Basel Miami, when his work kept pinging up on Instagram.

His portraits have a really magnetic, visceral power, using fingers to paint directly onto the canvas. While the effect is in your face and graphic, I like the attention to fashion detail, it’s got a bit of Alex Katz and Elizabeth Peyton flavour in that respect. In 2020, Boafo will have a solo show at Mariane Ibrahim in Chicago and I’m sure his influence will be far reaching. (more…)