What’s with my fixation on doubling up? Last summer it was all about the unexpected appeal of the double shirt. This year I’ve mentioned short-sleeve tees layered over long-sleeve ones, a throwback to my late-80s proto-grunge era.
At Celine’s recent Spring 26 show (above and below), Michael Rider reminded me of another favourite pile-on look, the loose, layered short-sleeve tees – preferably tucked in and belted. (more…)
It feels like my favourite moments of Paris Fashion Week men’s were the colour-drenched ones. Willy Chavarria’s saturated pinks, blues and yellows, and Saint Laurent’s nostalgic 70s Fire Island palette felt like a welcome answer-back to the monopoly of Cucinelli-meets-Piana muted neutrals. Add to that, deliberately skew-whiff styling (messy shirt collars at Dior, chappals and trackies at Prada) and the juxtaposition of casual with formal and there’s plenty of inspo to steal from the menswear rail. What’s more, you don’t have to wait till next summer, you can implement many of these ideas now… (more…)
“I’m not interested in luxury as a symbol of privilege. I’m interested in luxury as a symbol of truth in one’s own character. Exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship worn to elevate one’s personal intent — that’s power. That’s fashion.” Willy Chavarria, SS26
Boy, was I fortunate to see this quote in action last Friday, from my Paris menswear front row seat at Salle Pleyel. From the sober-but-powerful opening scene (to José Feliciano’s California Dreamin’) of 35 men in long white tees, shorts and socks, referencing the recent dehumanisation of U.S immigrants in Salvadoran prisons, the collection then went on to exuberantly reflect Chavarria’s personal exploration of identity, resistance and “refined subversion”. (more…)
A few snippets of digital ephemera and IRL recommendations I’ve enjoyed lately…
1/ UK AIDS MEMORIAL QUILT. Next Thursday (12th June) sees the UK AIDS Memorial Quilt go on display in the Tate Modern Turbine Hall, a combination of 42 quilts and 23 individual panels dedicated to approximately 384 individuals affected by HIV and AIDS in the UK. Alongside, there’s an hourly free screening of “There is a Light That Never Goes Out”, a recently rediscovered 50-minute documentary about the 1994 display of the quilt in Hyde Park. The quilt is on display at the Tate from 12-16 June; the film will be screened from 12-15 June. No booking required. Read more here. (more…)
