25 September, 2025

NYFW SS26 notes

Coach ss26 neck purses backstage

New York Fashion Week: Not a huge amount to write home about, but a few details captured my attention…

Coach has hit its stride in recent seasons and I’m pleased for Stuart Vevers. He’s a nice guy and I think people conveniently forget that he elevated Loewe in the fashion space before Jonathan Anderson arrived. Anyway, at Coach SS26 (above and below) I liked the neck doodads – cute little pouches and pendants meant to symbolise sentimentality and New York mementos. Styled in combination with dishevelled, oversized silhouettes by appropriately youth-obsessed Olivier Rizzo, they should help attract the next generation of Coach handbag-toting customers. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 2 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News, Trends Biz Sherbert, Brandy Melville, Celine, Dior, Gap, J Crew, J Press, Jonathan Anderson, Michael Rider, NYFW, preppy, Ralph Lauren, Tory Burch, trends

24 September, 2025

Cold eroticism at Jil Sander SS26

Jil Sander ss26

In the absence of a ticket, I watched Simone Bellotti’s debut SS26 show on YouTube. As one of 13 key designer debuts this season, it’s one of the first shows that will be discussed big. Coming from a very critically successful few seasons at Bally, Bellotti has engineered a lot of good feeling from the press.

I loved this debut. It felt stripped back to the spare linear silhouettes of OG Jil Sander, with a pure colour palette that nodded to Raf-era. Within that I particularly liked the cold eroticism of Lucio Fontana-esque cutaway slashes in the skirts and cut-out back details, unexpected pops of silver, some great bags and the flat shoes. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Designers, Fashion shows, News fashion shows, Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti, SS26

21 September, 2025

What’s the surprise? JW Anderson’s retail redux

JW Anderson Brewer Street

It might be my age and the time of year (nesting is calling!) but I’m a bit more excited for fashion’s lifestyle news than adding more clothes to my wardrobe. (Yes, really!)

This week sees the newly refurbed JW Anderson store in Brewer Street, ~~overflowing~~ beautifully merchandised with Jonathan Anderson’s mix of knitwear, loafer bags, Wedgwood Jasperware and Mackintosh oak stools. Later in the year we’ll see his vision for a new store in Pimlico Road (home of spendy antique shops and World of Interior-style stores). (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, News, Retail concepts Burberry, craft, Jonathan Anderson, JW Anderson, Lucie Rie, Margaret Howell, Nicholas Mosse, retail concepts, retail news, Wedgwood

8 September, 2025

On my radar: Soshiotsuki

Soshiostuki ss26

Congratulations to Soshi Otsuki, who just won the LVMH Prize.

Since launching as a menswear brand, Soshiotsuki, in 2015, his “distorted elegance” (also the name of his AW25 collection) in the tradition of Armani, Cerruti and even Studio Nicholson, now includes a number of women’s pieces.

To be specific, that means taking western men’s tailoring and filtering it through a Japanese lens – cardigan-soft fabrics, gentle gathering and draping, voluminous tailored trousers, enveloping knits – and juxtaposing them through careful styling. (more…)