Trends

Found: the perfect white jeans*



Vogue Italia September 1991 - Carre Otis white jeans by Michael Roberts

White jeans have enjoyed a renaissance in recent seasons. Not so much the skinny hipsters of Y2K-era Liz Hurley, but a more forgiving straight leg or roomier boyfriend cut, ideally ending at the ankle to wear with boots, loafers or sandals.

If you’re tall, Studio Nicholson*, The Row*, Raey and Toteme* should fit the bill (if you have an equally capacious budget). But I think I’ve hit the white jean jackpot at Arket. Its Rose cropped straight jeans* (below) are a milky-white, mid-weight 100% organic cotton denim, with a higher-than average rise, straight-verging-on-barrelled silhouette and most importantly for the non-statuesque, they hit the right part of the ankle. (more…)



Shop the post: A very English summer



Margaret Howell SS23 ANNEMARIEKE VAN DRIMMELEN

High summer season in London – not always a great look. The tube is rammed with tourists and locals and the default girl-about-town uniform of Summer ’23 seems to be strappy mini slip dress layered over a less-than-pristine white tee, mashed-up 90s trainers (Stan Smiths, Converse, Reeboks) plus equally lived-in trainer socks. It’s aiming for a sort of Kate-Moss-by-Corrine-Day grungy romanticism but widely missing the mark.

The truth is, we do summer dressing far better when it’s a little bit cooler, when the layers are more knitwear-leaning and yes, when there’s a hint of hailstorm in the air. More Iris Palmer bucolic realness by Tim Walker circa 1996 if you will. (more…)



Gentlewoman style: the Essēn demi-dressy summer flat



Essen Mary Jane mules

You know how I feel about mules. But I’m, willing to make a one-time exception for this very elegant, comfortable-looking and not badly priced Mary Jane mule from Melbourne-based brand, Essēn.

The toe is elegantly chiselled, with the merest suggestion of toe cleavage. The heel is a city-friendly 5mm, but the killer detail is the delicate strap that sits high on the instep, so from the front you barely know it’s a mule and it seems to secure the shoe in place, while still exposing plenty of ankle. (more…)



The culture of fashion: Pharrell x Louis Vuitton SS24



 Pharrell x Louis Vuitton ss24

All the Substacks and TikTokers have hit ‘post’ on their Pharrell x Louis Vuitton SS24 hot takes.

So, here’s mine.

I was expecting to hate the show and collection. (more…)