Business of fashion

R.I.P social media influencers, welcome back PR



Metier Sergeant all Day Cabas bag worn by Nicole Kidman in The Undoing

“There is a sense of growing ennui among influencers and brands. Celebrity is key to having those big moments that will live much longer than just an Instagram Story, as is working to place your brand in something that feels part of a cultural zeitgeist or nostalgia for millions. Beloved TV personalities from shows like ‘Dynasty,’ ‘Gossip Girl’ and ‘Sex and The City’ inspire nostalgia in generations while capturing new ones, so this intergenerational and international reach is incredibly attractive.”
Communications consultant, Alexandra Carello, WWD

This is an interesting feature in WWD describing the apparent fatigue with polished Instagram content and highlighting the shift to ‘cultural pioneers’, professional experts and social activists. It also flags the success of product placement in recent style-setting shows like Emily In Paris, The Undoing (featuring the Métier bag*, above and below) and Gossip Girl. (more…)



On Karl Lagerfeld, consumption culture and owning influence



Karl lagerfeld by Takashi Murakami

“I find the joy of collecting, the fun of hunting for objects, the exciting thing. But once I [win] it, I lose interest. I don’t want to be a curator living in a museum.”
Karl Lagerfeld

It was fascinating looking through the lots of Karl Lagerfeld’s estate auction a couple of weeks ago. Among them were his 1980s scrapbooks, his Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme jacket, a Shu Uemura makeup box and his own Chanel croc-embossed tote bag (below, which sold for €94,500). “Collectors from the world over, snapping up Karl Lagerfeld’s objects and designs, have consecrated his status as a fashion icon. The ‘Kaiser’ would surely have been moved by this immense public success,” said Pierre Mothes, vice president of Sotheby’s France. (more…)



R.I.P Virgil, passer of the flame



Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton

“I don’t come from where I’m supposed to come from. So I have to prove that this is design, that this is art, that this is valid.”
Virgil Abloh

Sad times in fashion. The news of Virgil Abloh’s untimely passing (from a private 2-year rare cancer illness) rocked the fashion world this week. But also created shock waves beyond. A pop culture icon whose influence stretched way past the boundaries of the catwalk, Virgil epitomised the modern-day Renaissance man who created product, music, happenings, communities and perhaps most importantly, the myth of the man himself.

Despite all the post-mortem plaudits, as a designer, he was polarising. (more…)



Highsnobiety just opened its concept store – in an airport



Highsnobiety Gatezero Zurich Airport store

Last week saw Highsnobiety open its concept store, Gatezero’ at Zurich airport. For six months, the bricks-and-mortar location will sell a hypebeast-friendly selection of products and exclusive releases from over 20 brands. Think Acne Studios and Gucci RTW and accessories, Comme wallets and Ambush jewellery. Plus travel essentials like toothbrushes and night masks.

From the pictures it looks perfectly pitched for the emerging new-luxury customer for whom brands and insider status are important. So, the hype fashion brands (Bottega, Balenciaga, Loewe and Saint Laurent) are also part of the buy, as well as beauty favourites Aesop, Byredo and Barbara Sturm. Naturally, there’s also a special Gatezero merch line (also available here). (more…)